Day 53 – Sunday, August 18, 2013

We spent a lazy day camped on the beach of Lake Nicaragua. It was good to just stay in one place today and not have to do anything. We made a delicious bagel, cream cheese and jam breakfast with fresh coffee. It tasted really good to finally eat something. For lunch, I made some fresh guacamole with tortilla chips. And for dinner, we made some baked potatoes, thick cut pork chops, and fresh carrots. We are trying to cook and eat most of our food before crossing the more restrictive border into Costa Rica tomorrow. We made a pretty good dent in our supplies. Julie notes “Yes. Time to break out the stretchy ‘Christmas dinner’ shorts. I notice Brad didn’t mention the gourmet dinner of toast and tea that I made the sick boy last night. And I added beans and a boiled egg to complete my meal. Just some of my specialties. Oh ya! Pretty and smart and she cooks! The whole package.”

The view of the volcanos, across the lake, changes constantly. We had our recliners out on the beach for most of the day taking in the views, watching the families play on the beach, and enjoying the breeze. Julie notes “This little guy in the orange reminded me of a little Jordan Emond, except Jordan’s bathing suit at the time was a stretchy lime green Speedo style. It was classic. He might still be wearing now it if his grandma hadn’t decided at one point, after a few years of wear, that it was time for a new one.”

We were able to give away some of the kid’s clothes we brought along to a 7 year old girl and her 3 year old brother. We also gave them a colouring book, a ball, and some candies. The father told me, in Spanish, “I was his friend in peace.”

…so go in peace to all my amigos reading this blog, the muleskinner and his sidekick.

Julie notes “There was not a lot of ‘peace’ and quiet however on a busy Sunday at the lake as a live band was playing at the restaurant behind us, cars and motor bikes were continuous up and down the beach but the music was good, kids played and laughed in the water all day and we met a Dr. and family from Nicaragua, who had been to Edmonton U of A for a short stint and who I think I accidentally invited for supper. But our new amigos went in ‘peace’ when they saw we did not have enough ‘pieces’ of food for them. And as a ‘peace’ offering gave us their little Nicaraguan flag from off their car.”

Day 52 – Saturday, August 17, 2013

I guess the good life is not for me. After eating at sketchy places all through Central America with no ill effects, I get caught at the nicest hotel we’ve seen on the trip. The only thing I ate that Julie did not eat was the ceviche. Lesson #1 – Don’t eat the ceviche from a buffet no matter how nice the hotel. I will spare you any further details but Treda is the medication of choice for situations like this. Julie notes “Now don’t get excited thinking Brad won the award for ‘the first person to break out the Treda’. I was awarded that honour a couple weeks ago after I purchased some beach vendor (who looked just my dad) candied squash. Some folks thought I deserved it just for trying such an odd combo. But when in Rome or Mexico….., I do worry though that this means I will not be seeing any more ‘nice restaurants’ for the rest of the trip because of Brad’s experience. He may shy away from those ritzy buffets. We shall see.”

We had a short easy drive today and therefore left a little later than our normal departure time – about 8:30 AM. The highways in Nicaragua are the best we’ve experienced through Central America. They are similar to highways in North America. We had the chance today to stop at the Masaya Volcano. Julie and I drove the road up the mountain in the national park to the rim of the volcano. It is quite an amazing site. Julie notes “Notice how I have politely shied away from comparing his gastric condition to an erupting volcano despite this being the perfect set up for that joke. I am quite proud of myself for my candor. I am always thinking of his feelings.”

Julie trying to get back at me for the border campsite. Let’s just say it was not her favourite spot. Julie notes “He bounced right back up. Damn those ‘one size fits all’ hard hats and volcano fumes! He’s harder to get rid of than hot lava on a shoe.”

Some of the lava fields below the volcano.

After spending an hour or so at the volcano, we headed on towards our destination; the beach near San Jorge, Nicaragua on the shore of Lake Nicaragua. We will spend 2 nights here. I spent the afternoon laying low and having a long siesta trying to recover from the effects of the ceviche. Hopefully, all will be well tomorrow with the help of medication and rest.

A mother holding her infant on the back of a motorcycle in heavy traffic. Just one of the modes of travel here. Only the driver gets a helmet. Julie notes “Driving anything without multiple passengers might be considered a sin here. Bicycles with 2 or 3 passengers, motorbikes with up to 5 riding, (2 adults, 3 kids, the baby bouncing on mom’s knee to the side), trucks packed full of school kids or families, road construction crews riding on the flat beds with their equipment, farmers riding on top of the cattle trucks, people just catching a ride to town and hopping out at their stop, cars and taxis are filled to the brim. No wonder they seem surprised when just the 2 of us emerge from our house on wheels.”

A view from our campsite on Lake Nicaragua. The constant breeze is wonderful with the temperatures in the low 30’s. We have a view of 2 volcanos, Concepcion (5,280′) and Maderas (4,500′) on Ometepe Island. Julie sighs “Ahhhhhhhh….”

…carry on folks, the muleskinner and his sidekick.

Julie sighs again “Ahhhhhh…”

Day 51 – Friday, August 16, 2013

We left the border station this morning, and after a final document and passport check, headed for Managua, Nicaragua. Managua is the capital city of Nicaragua. We are planning on an overnight stop. Our first choice for a campsite was the Airforce Club facility but it was under construction so we headed for Plan B. Plan B was the Camino Real Hotel and Casino. It is a beautiful first class hotel, part of the Westin chain I was told, with all of the amenities you would expect. We enjoyed a beautiful buffet lunch in the dining room. We then spent the afternoon around the outdoor pool having some drinks and visiting with other guests. We went back for dinner. Julie and I had Chateaubriand for two and some Chilean red wine. It was a big tenderloin of beef with four different sauces and two sides. Julie notes “I don’t think I was the only person a little travel weary of parking lots as ‘Wally Wally’s’ family opted for a nice hotel room here to rejuvenate in. A few days back in Mexico, on an early morning fuel stop, seeing the Pemex Station, Wally was heard saying ‘Daddy are we stopping to sleep again?’ Out of the mouths of babes.”

The Nicaraguan countryside

Julie notes “We are always happy to see as part of the scenery, the big white rear end of the 5^th wheel in front of us. A security beacon plus they provide helpful radio banter like ‘pot holes ahead’ it’s clear to pass, just ignore that solid line’, ‘policia is pulling us over, oh nope they’re pulling you over though, haha’ and ‘am I clearing those branches Brad?’ (as part of his vent lid goes bouncing down the road behind him, whoops). The rig is a good indicator for us to slow down or swerve or stop and during one very bumpy stretch, as we followed it through some rough road, the song ‘A Whole Lot of Shakin’ Going On’ appropriately played on the iTunes. The first few days of this trek for them were spent repairing shelves and unloading their heavy items to locals as they tried to make their house on wheels a bit more Latin American road worthy. We benefitted by receiving some yummy home preserves!”

A local market at one of our rest stops. Julie notes “Brad purchased some jalapenos (we think) from the fellow in the striped shirt. You can see them hanging in the second picture. We also found out what the mysterious green fruit was, the size and shape of oranges, that we’d seen growing on feathery trees in fields and along road sides and in yards. It turns out that they are the very exotic and hard to come by ‘verdes naranja’. (For those of you paying attention, that is Espanola for green oranges. Not so exotic or mysterious after all, just not ripened fully. I got the ‘loco gringo’ look when I asked what they were. Hombre, was my face rojo!)”

Along this particular stretch of highway, locals will sell exotic birds on the side of the road. Only exotic to us, I guess.

Typical street scene. Bicycles, horses, oxen, mules, motorcycles are common modes of transportation.

Having lunch in the dining room at the Camino Real Hotel & Casino Julie notes “It was nice having a crunchy salad. That is something we have been missing. And I will admit I enjoyed my fair share of the other foods as well. We declined dessert but our fellow diners taste tested them all.”

The hotel has an outdoor display of exotic birds. Julie notes “Polly want a cracker? No thanks. But a nice marguerite on the rocks poolside would be excellent!”

The sidekick. She’s a little happier with this campsite, I think. Julie notes “Yes, turns out all parking lots are NOT created equal. A note to Aunt Lynne and Uncle Herb…do you recognize anything in this picture. They have sure been the ticket down here.”

…carry on folks, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Day 50 – August 15, 2013

Today was a day about crossing borders and camping at borders. We left San Miquel in El Salvador about 6:30 AM and headed for the Honduras border. Border crossings here are at a minimum a 2 step process. You have to exit the country you are departing with all the appropriate stamps and paperwork and then enter the new country. Today we exited El Salvador, entered Honduras, exited Honduras and entered Nicaragua. The border crossing times were actually quite good at about a 6 hour total for all 4 border processes. We met an ex Canadian retired military guy today who seemed ill prepared for this trip. He has suffered numerous vehicle breakdowns, paid over $1000 in bribes, and spent 12 hours entering Guatemala. It makes us feel a little better about going with a group and guide. We have not suffered any of those problems to date.

A local farmer watching us stopped by the side of the road early in the morning. Julie notes “See the chickens Melodie?”

Some of the countryside.

Entering Honduras. Julie notes “We made some friends at the borders because an idling vehicle is a potential buyer of the many wares that people are selling there. Money exchangers flap their large wads of bills at us, hammocks and cookies and meats and maybe hamburgers(something wrapped like a burger?) and pretty much anything you can imagine are offered for a price as you sit awaiting the paper chase to be completed. Women carrying their wares in baskets or large basins balanced on their heads, water being hauled in everything from traditional style jugs to plastic carboys. Most of the women vendors we have seen through these last 3 countries wear beautiful aprons with lots of colourful eyelet and lace. I have yet to get a good picture but I know mom would love them. It is hard to tell who actually works for the border authorities and who is just working for tips as random men voluntarily guide you and hop onto your running boards as you drive along giving you directions and suggestions, offering to run and buy reflector strips for your vehicle, warning you about other schemers and so on. Curious boys come up to the window wanting to talk and maybe get some money or a treat. Brad gave out a Trumpeter Swan pin (City of GP logo) and a Canada flag pin to one boy who was practising English on us and helping us with some Española. Word spread and we had boys and men of all ages coming to the windows for pins and then proudly displaying them on their shirts. Except for one woman, who was trying to sell hers for a dollar. More power to her if she was successful. We shared our photo albums as well with those interested. ‘Mucho frio’ was the unanimous comment when they saw the ‘very cold’ snow pictures. It was the very opposite to that there! We were lucky to be able to turn on the air every once in a while. During one cooling reprise Willie Nelson was belting out ‘Just can’t wait to get on the road again!’ Brad rolled down the windows and turned up the volume. Our hint must’ve been heard as we were soon moving again.”

Julie notes “These little 3 wheeler taxis were very abundant and used by many. They go about 15 miles per hour we guess but some have added air foils on the top to cut down on drag and improve the speed we are assuming? I wasn’t fast enough to ever get my camera ready to get a picture of one with the air foil so maybe, just maybe it works. It certainly made them cuter!”

Along the pothole filled roads of Honduras small children stand in the middle of the highway begging for money with a shovel in hand pretending to fix the potholes.

We travelled over a high mountain pass which climbed from sea level to 1070m. The scenery was beautiful, the homes seemed a little more affluent, and the people were very friendly. Many of the kids, and even the adults waved or gave a thumbs up as we passed by.

We exited Honduras and spent the night at the border crossing after our vehicles were fumigated and we entered Nicaragua. Julie notes “Could’ve saved them the trouble of fumigating if they’d known how many meals containing beans Brad has had lately. You wanna talk toxic fumes!”

Believe me, not everything on this trip is spectacular. Spending the night at the border crossing may be safe, and even cooler because of the elevation, but it is certainly not picturesque, quiet, and serene. Julie notes “Especially when your wife is not happy. A good night for a hair wash and early shut eye. Never thought there would be a night I’d break Brad’s 7:20 pm bed time but it happened. It was probably a bit more serene for Brad after that.”

This is Julie trying to escape but I caught her before she could say “Nicaragua”!

….over and out for today, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Julie notes “Just keep repeating ‘it’s all part of the adventure, it’s all part of the adventure, it’s all part of the adventure…'”

Day 49 – Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Today we travelled along highway CA-1 from San Vicente to San Miguel in El Salvador. It was a short trip of less than 100 kilometres. Our destination was a mall parking lot – again. It is locked and patrolled at night but during the day it is a first class mall with many name brand high end shops. Most of the restaurants are fast food type places but we had a great brunch of homemade food in Lesly’s. There is another volcano visible from the parking lot and the scenery today was tropical and mountainous with thermal steam rising occasionally from underground sources. Julie notes, “Oh there was steam rising alright, when the 5^th wheel in our group became wedged in the mall parking entrance. Quick thinking, many swear words, some of his tools and some local help resolved the situation but the already caliente situation became even more caliente-er.”

Early morning San Vincente street scene.

San Vincente bridge.

El Salvador campo (countryside). Julie notes “Bonito!'”

Julie was able to find a salon and get her hair cut. After some charades they were able to figure out what she wanted. Julie notes “These lovely ladies were ever so helpful. And my cut cost $6, less than Brad paid the other day I think. So now good luck telling us apart because I think we got the same haircut. Short and sassy.”

Our mall campsite for restocking with a view of the volcano in the background. We were able to buy an unlocked smart phone here and will now be able to purchase SIM cards as we travel. Julie notes “Watch out folks, I have weeks’ worth of texts I have been holding in wanting to send. I may blow up your phones. I think that is the cool hip word for that.”

We travel straight through Honduras tomorrow and then into Nicaragua. The border crossing into Honduras has a bad reputation for long waits and corruption. We’ll see how it goes tomorrow. We took in an English speaking movie with Spanish subtitles, The Hangover, Part III, and then went to Pizza Hut for something to eat. It was one of the few places open after 9:00 PM. Julie notes “I can now add the ‘F’ bomb and several other similar type words to my slowly growing Spanish vocabulary. This movie gives you ample chances to read those translations in the subtitles if you happen to be studying ‘how to say naughty words in other languages’ but overall it was actually not bad for a 3^rd-quel.”

…over and out for today, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Julie notes “2^nd song out of the iTunes bank on this first morning back in the sidekick saddle was “I’ll Fly Away”, a favourite of Mom and Dad’s. It was in the list of songs that I had playing in the church this past weekend and we would all sing along with it. So a few tears fell this morning. When we reached our mall parking lot ‘campground’ Jann Arden’s “Good Mother”, also one of Mom’s church songs, started playing. There would’ve been more tears but our attention was then focused on the drama unfolding behind us in the wedged mall entryway. But I sure felt you today Mom and Dad – to quote Jann ‘I have a good mother, her voice is what keeps me here, feet on ground, heart in hand, facing forward, be yourself … I have a good father, his strength is what makes me cry, feet on ground, heart in hand, facing forward, be yourself. Just be yourself …'”

Day 48 – Tuesday, August 13, 2013

For any new subscribers: The Day 1 post can be found by clicking this link http://muleskinner.ca/2013/03/27/day-1-fort-nelson/  You can use the menus or navigation buttons to move trough the  blog posts.

We are staying in Amapalapa for the day. We had a leisurely morning and enjoyed a nice cup of coffee. Before the coffee was gone, three municipal policemen stopped to chat. They were interested in the camper, where we were from, our trip, and many other topics. Julie offered them each a coffee and they stayed around for an hour and a half talking away. Justin, one of the other travellers, speaks much better Spanish than we do and was able to understand most of what they were saying or asking and translated what we needed. Julie notes “Miss Manners says the polite thing to do, when someone shows up unexpected or not, with semi-automatic rifles or not, is to offer them coffee. She was correct, again. Family men doing their jobs.”

After they left we wandered over to the open air restaurants for some breakfast. There are 6 restaurants under one roof and the ladies come out and wave very pleasantly trying to entice you to eat at their place. We choose Merendero La Gemela Tita. Others in our group had tried a few of the places and this one seemed the best to them so we stuck with that recommendation.

We decided to go for another fish massage in the upper pool. Very refreshing. Julie notes “Ahahaha, teeheeteehee, OUCH! That one hurt! Hmmm he looks different. Is he a piranha? Time to go!”

We then walked up the hillside on a little trail to check out more of the park. Julie notes “The foliage is amazing. And I’m not just referring to my overgrown eyebrows.”

This mermaid has seen better days and was in a closed off area. Julie notes “For a second there I thought this was going to be a picture of me swimming. Typical though, Eh ladies? A gal starts showing her age a bit and gets a little worn around the fins, paint starts chipping and they fence her off. I feel for ya sister.”

…great to have Julie back, over and out, the muleskinner and his side kick. Julie notes “The Sidekick was glad to be with family and is now glad to back sidekicking the mule. She also slept about 14 hours yesterday not counting my airplane naps and I hope the family at home is catching up on the some much needed rest. We’ve all fought the hard fight for many months now.”

Day 47 – Monday, August 12, 2013 Julie’s Back

Today we left Conchalio near La Libertad and travelled about 75 km to Turicentro Amapalapa near San Vincente, El Salvador.

We toured the facilities which consist of restaurants, a wide variety of manmade pools that are filled with natural spring water and tiny fish, and other support buildings. The facility is showing its age and could definitely use some maintenance.

After the tour and getting setup I caught a ride into San Vincente town centre with our guide Norm and his assistant Merriam. Norm helped me negotiate a price with a taxi driver for a 45 minute drive to the San Salvador airport, wait for me, and return with both Julie and me. The total time was about 3 hours and the cost was $40 US.

We left Conchalio at 7:00 AM and this sow and piglets that had been grazing on the loose since we arrived, came to say goodbye.

I arrived at the San Salvador airport and waited for Julie in open air arrivals area along with many others. Well, they weren’t waiting for Julie, I don’t think, but you know what I mean. Julie notes “Flights were great. But boy were my arms tired! Sorry used that the other day and got a lot of groans at the church. You would think Brad and I, being tall and foreign would’ve spotted each other immediately but it took some searching as I ran the gauntlet of eager taxi drivers. It was a hot and sweaty reunion and not in the way you are thinking. The taxi driver helped us with some name place pronunciation. It made him giggle anyway which is maybe why the fare was low.”

After arriving back at Amapalapa, we made our way to the uppermost natural pool to get a fish massage. It is really a neat experience that I can’t really describe. The first little bites they take of your dead skin is like being tickled and feels really weird but you soon become accustomed to the sensation. Julie notes “haha oooteehee that tickles….”

One of the larger ones attacked us later on in our massage. Scary.

Our campsite in Amapalapa.

I loaned Victor my backpacking nylon tarp to help keep him a bit dryer in his “el cheapo” leaking tent. Hopefully he can stay dry during rainy season in Central America.

The shallow kids area was a little run down but it didn’t seem to stop families from having fun in all of the pools. Julie notes for her family “We thought…you was…a toad…”

I had marinated a steak all day and got out the grill. I made some roasted potatoes, tomato, red onion and cheese salad, grilled the steaks, and added it to Julie’s garlic bread. Before I could finish BBQ’ing the skies opened up and we had a torrential downpour. I finished the grilling with a headlamp and umbrella and we enjoyed a great meal with a nice glass of wine in the camper. This was all in an attempt to let Julie know she made the right choice in flying back to meet me. Julie notes “It worked but now there is a lot of pressure to maintain that level of pampering. Luckily for him there are leftovers for at least one more day!”

…carry on folks, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Day 46 – Sunday, August 11, 2013

Today is Julie’s birthday. I know what I want to buy her but I haven’t found it yet. I can’t tell you in case she actually reads this blog. J

We made a trip into La Libertad this morning on the bus to buy fish and vegetables for our special lunch prepared by a local family. The lunch was corvine, a very nice fish. It was coated and fried whole in vegetable oil along with fresh cut fries and a tomato cucumber salad. We ate at their rustic beachside palapa.

The fish market and pier.

A boatload of fresh shrimp being unloaded by hand from an ice chest.

Our corvina being weighed.

Our campsite in Conchalio.

And, the final question for today is; why did the chicken cross the road on Julie’s birthday?

…over and out folks, the muleskinner soon to be back with his sidekick.

Day 45 – Saturday, August 10, 2013

I spent today meeting some local kids and adults, having the laundry done by the local laundry service (pick up and delivery included), getting the inside of the RV cleaned, spending time on the beach and in the ocean, attempting to surf, meeting the mayor of La Libertad, watching some moto-cross racing happening nearby, ordering a fresh shrimp cocktail delivered by bicycle from one of the beach restaurants, enjoying a couple of cold El Salvador Pilsners (a very good beer, by the way) and reminiscing about good times spent with Jim and Vera. It was a day with mixed emotions.

One of the local kids selling necklaces to me for my chica(sp).

This 16 year old married mother of a 9 month old does house cleaning. I hired her to clean the inside of the RV so Julie will think I’m an amazing housekeeper when she returns on Monday. She came back later in the day with 2 friends asking if they could look at the inside if the camper. They thought it was bonito(sp).

I brought quite a few Grande Prairie pins with me to give away. One of the young girls asked for 2 and proceeded to wear them as earrings. J I also gave out a big bag of candy to the local kids and adults along with some scribblers, pencils, and sharpeners we brought along as gifts. I think the adults enjoyed getting the candy as much as the kids.

Sporting a Grande Prairie pin in fine style.

Time at the beach. The water is the warmest I have ever experienced. It is near body temperature. Very nice. Even Julie might get in the water at this temperature!

The Rambos. A family travelling in our group.

A full cold beer shot. I had to order a second one for this photo because I drank the first one before remembering to take a picture.

The mayor of LaLibertad, El Salvador, Carlos Molina, sporting his Grande Prairie pin.

…my thoughts are with Vera Holmes today and all of the Holmes’ family.

…carry on folks, the muleskinner soon to be back with his sidekick.

Day 44 – Friday, August 9, 2013

Today we travelled from Palin, Guatemala, crossed into El Salvador and followed the beautiful Pacific coast to Conchalio, ES near La Libertad, ES.

This is a small seaside community. The people here don’t have much in terms of material goods but are very friendly, helpful, full of life, and out-going. Finding a camping spot suitable for all of us was very stressful. The first choice was a spot right on the beach but to get there was pretty much impossible for me and the folks with the fifth wheel trailer. The narrow street, 90 degree turn, and newly installed low hanging signs made it impassible for our higher vehicles. The second choice was a narrow lane that was perpendicular to the coastline. However, it was not the most secure feeling place and would be almost impossible for the people with the fifth wheel to open their RV slide-outs. The third choice was a secure gated resort for the federal government workers. We all just got nicely set up when we were asked to leave because I had a beer in my hand outside the RV and others had dogs on the loose – neither of which were allowed we were to find out. We then headed back to an open area near our second choice which is within walking distance of the beautiful beach. Finally, we had a spot for the next few days.

Waiting on the bridge after 3xiting Guatemala and waiting to enter El Salvador.

The border exit and entry took 4 hours for passport, vehicle, and animal clearance.

I bought this young guy some kind of fruit he was going to share with his family the next day when the fruit was ripe and ready – I can’t remember the name of it but he seemed quite happy to have one. I then bought him a Coke to enjoy all to himself. He was a really col little dude.

Once we cleared customs (aduana) we were on our way down the windy, hilly, beautiful Pacific coast.

There were 5 tunnels through the mountains, the longest of which was about a kilometre.

This is the street to our first choice beach campground. There is a 90 degree turn and a narrower street ahead. I had to back out about ½ a kilometre, the same way I entered. The 90 degree turn would have reminded Julie of the Austin Powers movie when he was crossways in the tunnel. Forward, reverse, forward, reverse, forward, reverse, forward, reverse, etc. Fun, fun, fun!

….over and out for today, the muleskinner minus his sidekick. Thinking of the Holmes’ family today and the visitation for a great lady. Miss you Vera.