Day 96 – Monday, September 30, 2013

How bad are we? We failed to mention the 4^th anniversary of our son and daughter-in-law on September 26^th. Happy Anniversary Jordan and Alison. Julie notes “Jordan, I’m pretty sure that our mother and son dance song ‘Mama’ played on your anniversary day (give or take a day or 2) but it made me laugh and remember your special day. We’re proud of the strong couple you have become and the hard work, fun and love you put into your relationship. Love the PUs. Now a few more grandkids wouldn’t make us sad. Just saying.”

Today was a big travel day. We left the beach around 8:00 AM and headed north. Our guide would make a decision at Tampico on which of the 3 routes we would take back to the US. We headed to the Federal Policia office at the airport in Tampico to check on routes. They advised us to take the route through Victoria and Monterey to Laredo, TX. This route was a few hundred kilometres longer but maybe safer. We made it to a small village near the airport in Victoria where we camped for the night. That left about 520 kilometres for tomorrow and a border crossing.

I spoke with our guide that night about getting an early start so we could ensure making back to the US or at least make our best effort. He said that he never travels in the border area of Mexico before 8:30 or 9:00. This is when the worst of the muleskinner appeared to Julie’s horror and disappointment. This was clearly not true. I pointed out to him that on July 28 we left McAllen, TX at 6:30 and crossed into Mexico before 7:30 AM. This was just one more of his misinformation statements that pushed me over the edge, unfortunately. Two things that I inherited from my dad that trigger my temper are people who are not trustworthy and/or honourable. I will spare you further details about my rant and tirade but will tell you that he wrote up a little report on the incident. We did not get a copy, so we’re not sure what his version of events looks like. Julie notes “I’d like to put a humorous spin on this but I don’t see how. Although I agreed with the points Brad was trying to make, his frustration with the situation overrode his better judgement, BIG TIME! Unfortunately it garnered the attention of the locals and there is probably a new folk song about the Windmill Man. Maybe cousin Barb, who seems to always have her ear on the latest folk trends, has heard it and can give us the lyrics. I’m thinking it starts off a little like this ‘Oh, oh Windmill Man, where ya gonna run to…”

There were lots of kids in the area playing soccer and visiting with us. We found a little more candy to pass around. This was the last of our candy, for sure. Julie notes “Well I have 2 restaurant mints and a few tums on reserve in my purse, if need be. Brad has enjoyed his ‘Albert’ moments for sure as giving out candy was something his dad would do at the store. I am also happy to note that Brad did not strike a deal with one funny young man, the night before, who was trying to trade his motorbike for; the truck and camper. Once he found out that I was one of the options that came with camper he wasn’t as interested anymore. He really gave everyone the giggles imitating us driving the motorcycle on our Canadian icy roads.”

Our campsite near the beach at Tuxpan with the lighthouse nearby. Julie notes “Okay this brings me to our nocturnal story for this campground. If you recall we were enjoying our beachfront camping spot immensely, probably letting our relaxed happiness show too much. Because right about the time we are smiling and sighing and letting our guard down a bit, enjoying the breeze and the view, our guide comes along and tells us we have to move up to the dirty, hot, garbage filled parking lot for safety reasons. So we enjoyed the beach as long as we could and then packed up and moved where Norm was parked. We understand the safety in numbers and well lit areas so resigned ourselves to the new sleeping spot. Not only was it much hotter than the beach, but it was across from a popular beach restaurant with the obligatory thumping music. We’re pretty used to that by now but if you look at the picture below you can see the lighthouse behind us. We had our blinds and windows open in hopes of a breeze but even blinds wouldn’t block out the intense strobe light that of course goes all night long. We were right in its path and accompanied with the music, it was like we were trapped in a hot and steamy discothèque. Brad was tempted to don his John Travolta suit that he always carries with him for moments just like this. It was another long night.”

Julie notes “Okay Kelly M. since you were so smart with your other cement answer, what is this structure? If it helps, there was another identical one located down the beach. Accepting all guesses. Your prize will be first choice from the beach accessory wagon we purchased the other day.”

In Tuxpan, they have a beautiful divided boulevard along the river, lined with palm trees, and what we now know are exercise machines stationed at various intervals. Julie notes “We figured it out because a block up the street, most were in use as it was early morning. Yesterday afternoon when we passed the other way, I thought they were some surfboard inspired modern art.”

Some of the scenery along the way.

We stopped to get some fresh “string” like cheese. Very good stuff. Julie notes “Yes he was seriously this happy.”

Crossing the large bridge into Tampico.

The land flattens out as you move further north. There is some fertile farmland with mountains in the distance. Julie notes “You farming folk out there, what is this crop? It looks similar to a corn plant when it starts out, then grows a tall flowered spike that turns the yellow that you see here. Many fields of it. We’d ask our guide but he’s full of manure most of the time.”

The obligatory laundry shot. Julie notes “Bonus, a nice pink house for Jaime. She wanted one when she was in her pink phase growing up. Maybe she still does?”

My friends in the small village near Victoria where we camped for the night. Julie notes “Some of these guys would pass by us up and down the sidewalk saying ‘hello, goodbye’, using their English words as we were replying in Spanish. They thought they were hilarious. This was a very nice school ground and the uniforms a beautiful red and beige. A colour combo we hadn’t seen before. But they all rushed home to change out of their school clothes before coming back to check us out more closely. Good kids.”

…over and out, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Julie notes “I envision another sleepless night due to the tension level. How many more sleeps, or attempts to sleep before the border you ask? Who knows?”

“These are just petty problems though that we shall overcome. We are reminded that yesterday, it was 2 years since we lost our friend Loren Melnyk, after a courageous battle against a horrible cancer. He is missed daily by family and friends who wonder if that void will ever be filled. Thinking of our Melnyk girls and hoping time is beginning to heal.”

Day 95 – Sunday, September 29, 2013

We had the option to stay another day and night in Tecolutla or move on to Tuxpan for the day. We did not stop at Tuxpan on the way south so decided we should travel the 150 or so kilometres. It was a good decision. The beach at Tuxpan is wonderful. The waters are clean and warm and we could camp close to the beach. We left around 1:00 PM and were in Tuxpan by 3:00 PM. Julie notes “Hmmm a hot, noisy street next to the squeaky wheels of tortilla torture or a beautiful beach with the ocean breezes and clean sand between your toes. Tough choice. Makes us wonder what reasons Norm has for staying in Tecolutla. Is it really just the shrimp cocktail?”

We went for breakfast at a local Tecolutla restaurant we had been to on the trip south. Julie ordered an omelette. Bad choice. I had the huevos rancheros. Better choice. Lesson #95; order what they make locally. When the waitress has to check with the cook to see if he can make an omelette, you know you’ve made the wrong choice. I think this lesson has already been mentioned in the blog somewhere else but sometimes even the authors forget. Julie notes “I think the cook that day was her dad, the owner, filling in on a slow Sunday morning. There are a lot of pictures in the restaurant of him catching fish, but none of him cooking them. The little town was much quieter this time around even for a weekend making us think that we must’ve been here during a holiday last time through. But the party bus still drives up our street with the music blaring and horn honking despite few partiers. Brad wanted to get on and dance the night away but I wouldn’t let him. No seatbelts.”

And for our high class friends that like to travel to Mexico for their luxury vacations, I think we have found the hotel for you in Tecolutla. See the pictures below. No need to book early as there has not been anyone there on any of the days we were here; both times. But don’t let that stop you. It’s called Hotel Malta in case you can’t read the hand painted sign. There is no A/C but who needs A/C when you don’t have windows or doors? Julie notes “Brad is exaggerating. There is someone living in the bottom left hand suite with the blanketed doorway. And we even saw food being delivered to him. Bonus. Plus a short walk to the beach and have we mentioned the tortilla factory almost right next door? What do you say Lola? Maybe check it out on Vacation Rental by Owners’ website.”

Our campsite across the street on a foggy Sunday morning. Julie notes “or Brad just coming out of a fog. And again, our choice was to stay here or a beach. What would you choose?”

These shrines are all along the highway. Some have burning candles inside when we go by. We assume someone stops and lights a candle on their way to work each morning. Julie notes “We have seen these everywhere ranging from very simple similar to roadside markers to elaborate to actual small chapels. The entrances to towns, gas stations, malls, grocery stores usually will have one. Very devout and it is interesting to see the mix of state and religion.”

Another lab for the QEII folks to envy. Julie notes “I had hoped to go into one of these little places but haven’t been forced back into employment just yet.”

Good toll highways to travel on again today.

Some farmland scenery you might see north of the border.

Tuxpan is a shipping port with deep water access from the river to the Gulf of Mexico.

The view from our camper door at our beachfront site. The ships you can faintly see on the horizon are waiting to enter the port.

Julie’s fancy schmancy fruity drink that wasn’t really a drink. It had a spicy concoction poured over top of the fruit. The fruit was very nice and I think she enjoyed it. Julie notes “What kind of a face is that? The fruit was delicious but the straws were deceiving as there was nothing but a tiny dribble of pineapple juice in the bottom. Could be it dribbled out the bottom during the vendor’s trek across the beach. So I guess it’s my WTFDd face. (Where’s The Fruit Drink dammitt).

We bought this cart of beach wear and toys to bring home for our friends and family. You should be able to spot us pulling into Grande Prairie with this cart strapped to the roof. I hope it’s still there when we get home or there will be some disappointed faces. Julie notes “You guys know the rule. No asking or you don’t get anything!”

…over and out, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Julie notes “Border crossing was coming up soon, we hoped, back to the states and therefore we needed to cook up all raw items we had. So I was boiling eggs and potatoes inside and Brad had a meat fest going on the grill with chicken and sausage and peppers. It was a delicious supper but I’m not sure the beach restaurant workers were happy to see the potential competition. We could’ve fed quite a people and made a few pesos.”

Day 94 – Saturday, September 28, 2013

We made up the traveling shortfall we had yesterday. We traveled from Aguilera, past yesterday’s planned destination at a Pemex on the Auto Pista, and on to Tecolutla. How many people reading this can say they have been to Tecolutla twice? We can. Julie notes “How many people can even say ‘Tecolutla’? Okay you show offs. Now say it 3 times fast.” We arrived in Tecolutla around 2:00 PM. Julie notes “Darn I was really looking forward to staying in the Pemex gas station parking lot. They did have showers if I recall.”

We parked at the same location on the street across from the squeaky tortilla factory. It was hot again and we had no shade from the direct sun. We went with Norm to his favourite restaurant for beers and fresh large shrimp cocktails. Very large, fresh, delicious shrimp.

Julie and I then headed for the beach, rented a table and umbrella, and spent the afternoon having a few drinks, swimming, getting serenaded by guitar player/singer buskers, saying “no gracias” to the endless parade of vendors hawking their wares, and just people watching. It was a good relaxing afternoon.

Julie notes “I couldn’t eat all of my shrimp cocktail and so I had it packed to go and dropped it off at a hotel refrigerator so we could pick it up on our way back from the beach to our camper. This seemed like a great idea when we had access to our Spanish interpreter. Try explaining to the new staff that came on in between times that you have a doggy bag full of shrimp cocktail down in their restaurant refrigerator. The Windmill Man was in full tilt mode. But 6 people down the line we who happened upon the owner and we reclaimed our leftovers and most of our dignity.”

We walked down to a little restaurant in the main town plaza and had some tacos for a late supper and then meander around the square before heading back to our lawn chairs on the street trying to stay cool (obviously not trying to be cool).

Nice truck buddy. Did you pick that colour? Julie notes “I don’t know what he’s talking about. I love the trucks down here. Like everything else, very bright and colourful.”

We travelled along the Gulf coast through a very large wetland area only a few feet above sea level. Julie notes “I’m pretty sure I could see crocodiles smiling and licking their lips as we drove by. Just seemed like a placed they would like to hang out in and wait for stranded touristas. Now I know how Cap’n Hook always felt.”

One area contained hundreds of egrets. Julie notes “Okay maybe I was wrong about the crocodiles. These guys didn’t seem too worried. I hope the egrets don’t regret their decision. (I know I used that joke before but I like it and who’s really paying attention anyway?)”

We crossed this bridge southbound and now again on our northbound trip. Julie notes “Another Deja View.”

The highways today were pretty good. A few rough sections but mostly good traveling. Julie notes “We were having a very ‘Vera and Jim’ day on the iTunes and then this Veracruz sign popped up so we turned that way.”

Any car, from anywhere in the world, that ends up in Mexico can be made roadworthy. Julie notes “This is one of my other obsessions. Be they called llanteras, vulcanizadora, or ‘pickyourtireouthere’ (I may have that last one a bit wrong, memory is failing me), the tire shops are on almost every corner and there is usually one right after a string of topes or a stretch of bad road. Location, location, location. They don’t vary much in appearance. This one shown here is quite fancy as they are usually just a shack with lots of tires piled around, a hammock hung somewhere and almost always a group of men, I’m assuming talking about tires, work and probably women. It seems like their answer to the pool hall. Sometimes a little food stand will be associated with it because as we know shooting the breeze and solving the world’s problems can make you hungry.”

Julie’s OCD daily laundry shot. Julie notes “It’s true. If I don’t see laundry on the line I make him drive me around and around until I do. Who am I kidding? There is always a laundry shot out there but am I quick enough to get it? That is the challenge. Not sure why I like it so much. Just one of those things that ties us all together. Pun intended.”

Tecolutla is a trophy fishing destination. Julie notes “Brad turn this way, toward the camera! I know what we’re having for supper! For a few days at least.”

One of the buskers on the beach serenading the lady next to us. Julie notes “She was having a great day by herself at the beach. She had this guy sing to her for at least a half an hour, ordered food and drinks and bought goodies, chatted, laughed. She is my new beach mentor. Not to be confused with Beeotch mentors. I have had a few of those too.

We bought a little hanging basket set for the RV to help us stay more organized. I had to use my best negotiating skills to get a good deal but again I think the vendor left happy.

…over and out, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Julie notes “As I said above, this was a very ‘Vera and Jim’ day and we ended it with a wild chase in the camper, yelling ‘I thought you was a toad.’ The little toad or frog is still in there having ricocheted off my arm and into the depths of boxed items under the table. There are a few flies in the camper too so hopefully the one will take care of the other. Hope it doesn’t get out up in Canada and we cause an ecological disaster as in the ‘Bart Simpson, trip to Australia’ episode. Watch for updates on that.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 93 – Friday, September 27, 2013

We’re back online. Sorry for the big gap between posts but as I said, Julie promised to make these posts worth the wait. Julie notes “Oh gee thanks Brad! No pressure there!” Firstly though, Happy Birthday to my two younger brothers (twins) Danny and Donny to family, Dan and Don to some, Daniel and Donald to most. Born 3 minutes apart on September 27, 1956 makes them 57 years old today. Julie notes “This is also my Aunt Lynne’s birthday who also goes by other names like Lynne and AL and is possibly best known from her time as a Queen Charlotte Island Star ‘Peeler’ along with my mother. They were a team actually but for more details on that you will have to wait for my other book ‘Family Secrets and Why They Should Remain That Way.’ This was the first of many firsts without Uncle Herb there in body but I’m sure in spirit. He was probably trying to find a way to put trick candles on your cake. Sounds like you were surrounded by love for the day.”

Julie notes “Okay, buddy let’s back this story waaaaaaaayyyyyyy up to the wee hours of the morning and even the evening before. As usual Brad has skimmed over a few details in his summary below. There was a large old church in the square we parked at and we had been treated to some loud and enthusiastic bell ringing interspersed throughout last evening as a long and well attended church service was being held. There was also a marching practise for some of the local government workers. They must’ve been preparing for an upcoming event. Or maybe they considered us visiting dignitaries and it was for our benefit. If so, then THANK YOU! They were having quite the time keeping straight faces as they marched down a ramp and rounded a corner, where that one guy, you know who he is, keeps goose stepping out of turn. Our alarm was set to go off at 6 AM so we closed our eyes and ears to the murmurings in the plaza around us and hoped the heat and humidity would drop a bit for a better sleeping temperature. We started to hear the town coming to life a little after 5 AM but thought it was just folks up getting ready to beat the heat of the day, until we heard some gentle ‘tap, tap, taps’ on the front door. Brad again answered in super hero mode and explained to the fellow at the door that the police chief had authorized that we could park there for the night. And closed the door hoping he had gotten his point across in Windmill Gringo style. But we were awake at that point so Brad starts going through his morning packing up routine and sees that we are now surrounded by about 50 people milling about, all looking a bit miffed about our camping location. Now first thing that comes to our mind are the rotating protests that we had seen in the bigger towns we had passed through. We quickly got things closed up enough to move down the block, out of the way. But in the end, it appears it was not a protest but an extension of the church service from the night before that started at 6 AM out in the square beside where we had been parked. Yes 6 AM! It lasted a couple minutes and then folks went on their merry way. We should’ve maybe stayed put and we could’ve been blessed as part of the service and our day may have turned out better. But moving was better than being cursed by the folks who felt we were in their way. We cannot easily blend in but we can do our best to not be a bother.”

Our goal today was to drive to Tecolutla, MX, however, because of the labour dispute and revolving protests happening throughout Mexico we only made it to Aguilera. The protesters had blockaded the major roadway we were traveling. The traffic backup of trucks was probably 15 kilometers long. Before arriving in Aguilera, however, we crossed the isthmus of Mexico from the Pacific side to the Gulf of Mexico side. It is known for its extreme winds and we had secured awnings and hatches the night before with duct tape. As it was on the way south, we had no wind again in this area.

In the very small town of Aguilera, we found a little Community Park to camp in and the folks there made us feel right at home. They were very friendly and accommodating and couldn’t seem to do enough for us. One large extended family had taken the day off from their masonry construction business and was celebrating in their backyard with food, drinks, music, and laughter. Every time we walked by they invited us in to join the festivities.

It was very hot today, well over 30C, and we ran the generator and AC for most of the afternoon. By late afternoon, the protest blockade had ended and traffic started moving but we stayed in Aguilera for the night hoping to move on in the morning.

We went to a local family run BBQ place on the highway for a meat lover’s special – sausage, chicken, and ribs. Julie and I shared a plate and still had some left over. They grill all the meat on a wood fired homemade brick and steel BBQ. The sausage is hung above the grill and smoked until it is ready to grill. Julie notes “This is where that old Christmas poem originated ‘the sausage was hung by the chicken with care, and the ribs were all seasoned for meat lovers to share’

Large wind generators on the west side of the isthmus of Mexico. Julie notes “Once again it was not windy through this pass making us think our guide might be full of hot air. But I guess the person that decided to place all of these windmills must know something too.”

Scenery along the highway

They large “speed bumps” or topes are called “reductors” here but they have the same effect.

No, it’s not our leader, Norm, it’s the rear end of some cattle in a truck but I can see how you would be confused. J

Julie was tempted to make a side trip to her namesake Mexican town but I convinced her to keep on truckin’ northward. Julie notes “I bet it was an absolutely beautiful and charming place otherwise they wouldn’t have chosen that name.”

The results of the blockade. This was approximately 15 km from the actual blockade.

Julie notes “As you can see above, even the people with guns were having trouble making headway so we decided it was best to backtrack and check other options. This involved more backing up and manoeuvering and hand signaling other motorists to give us some space but it did not require me getting a whole street full of vehicles to back up as happened back in San Cristobal. So I was happy.”

Our new friends in Aguilera.

Some chicken shots especially for our granddaughter Melodie.

A chicken and a laundry shot all in one picture. Julie notes “Bonus, 2 of my obsessions together. This campground also offered a herd of wandering sheep, horses grazing right outside our window and duelling roosters in the morning.”

The family run BBQ joint with the pitmaster hard at work.

And here is the pitmaster and his “horno” oven (really – that is what it is called) from last night, in Tapanatepec, that Julie mentioned in yesterday’s post.

Our unplanned campsite for the night. We made friends later in the afternoon and evening with all the local kids and some adults who come to this park to play soccer, run around, and just have fun. We gave away the last of our candy supply as we visited with all the kids. Julie notes “Love the colourful tire border on playground. As often happens when there is lots of playing, the fun ends when the crying starts. 2 little boys, hot and tired and one ball.”

…over and out, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Julie notes “I don’t think I have any Christina Aguilera on my iTunes but if you know a song, shout it out.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sorry loyal blog followers.  We have not posted anything for quite a few days.  We have had some long travel days and the free day we had we spent lazing on a beach in Tuxpan, MX.  We promise to get you all caught up over the next few days.  We are currently in a beautiful full service RV Park in San Antonio, TX.  Stay tuned for the updates. Julie promises to make them worth the wait.  I think that is code for “Brad will be looking like a fool.”

…over and out from the good ole USA, the muleskinner and his sidekick