Day 58 – Friday, August 23, 2013

We left our Price Smart parking lot campground in David, Panama this morning around 7:30 AM and headed towards Panama City. We drove about 435 kilometres today. Panama, and Costa Rica for that matter, appear more affluent than many of the other Central American countries. Both have more development and resort facilities and better economies, it appears.

Our Price Smart parking lot campground in David, Panama just after sunrise.

A couple of unknown buildings near a police checkpoint we were stopped at for a document check. No idea what these were used for but appear very secure. Too secure for an outhouse? Julie notes “Seems they were trying to camouflage them. Vewy interestink! But it von’t verk.”

We stopped at a roadside stand selling traditional dresses and bead necklaces and bracelets. Julie checked out the wares. Julie notes “Bonita colores, and hand appliqued. I had someone special in mind while I shopped. You’ll have to guess who.”

And we also checked out a cool spider web nearby. Julie notes “I took this picture from afar. I wasn’t interested in meeting the web master.”

Anyone want a banana? Julie notes “Or as my dad always said when he was turning down a food offering ‘No thanks, I just had a banana.’ Good thing we didn’t rear end him. That’s a lot of banana splits.”

The highways in Panama, for the most part, are pretty good. Today we travelled on mostly 4 lane divided highway. There are short sections that are the original concrete and pretty rough but those sections are less frequent than the good stuff. Julie notes “clickclack,clack,clink,clink,clank,ouch (trying not to chip a tooth on my metal water bottle while driving over the ‘pretty rough’ spots).”

Julie notes “Notice we have a new white butt in our road pictures now.”

We crossed the Panama Canal on the historic “Bridge of the Americas” and pulled into the canal administration area in Balboa. The area is beautiful and well maintained. It is full of landscaped boulevards and beautiful old buildings. This is where Julie thought we would be camping. Julie notes “Yay, at last, the ‘holiday portion’ of the adventure is starting!”

Not so fast. We camped in the Balboa Fire Department parking lot. It is in the beautiful Canal area but is the one and only building needing repair. This is what we got from Julie’s viewpoint. J

Julie notes “Okay, if I can’t say something nice I should just not say anything right? But really, are you kidding me?”

The people working here were great though and very friendly. They proudly showed us their modern equipment. It is some of the most up-to-date equipment anywhere in Central America. Both fire fighters (bomberos) and paramedics work from this facility.

Some of the staff were preparing supper when we toured through the building. They loved getting their picture taken and had some fun doing so. Julie notes “We didn’t get invited for supper but Brad cooked me up some turkey burgers which were nummy. His clever trick of trying to distract me with food.”

…over and out for today, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Julie notes “Seriously though, it is right next to a major thoroughfare where transports gleefully use their retarder brakes. Plus the other ‘surprise’ that our guide seemed to think was a bonus, is we’re close to the airport and also right under the landing and take off flight path of military and leer jets and planes, etc. Flying so low (and loud) that Brad has to practically duck and the camper actually shakes and all the car alarms in the area go off. For real. Okay, now I’m done. But honestly?”

Day 57 – Thursday, August 22, 2013

We are currently in David (pronounced Da-veed), Panama. It was a short travel day from the mountain town of Volcan down to David. We had our truck serviced, filled up with diesel and propane, bought a few groceries and visited another mall. Contrary to popular belief, visiting malls is not Julie’s favourite activity. That leaves it up to your imagination to determine her favourite activity (wink, wink). Julie notes “NOT visiting malls has become my new favourite activity. No winks implied.”

We did take in an afternoon matinee at the theatre. We saw Red 2 with Bruce Willis. Bruce Willis is not my favourite actor but this movie was in English (with Spanish subtitles) and was actually quite good and also funny in parts. Julie notes “I recognized a few more Spanish words in the subtitles but it turns out reading and listening and eating popcorn is two more things than I can do and still keep up with the plot.” We are camped out in the Price Smart parking lot. It is almost identical to Costco. We experienced afternoon rain again today. Julie notes “I am starting to notice some webbing in between my toes. If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck then it is probably me telling you that these wet parking lots are beginning to grow on me.”

This will be Victor and Mindy’s last day with us. This is Mindy. Julie notes “Yes Victor left to start his new life in a new place. I think he was a bit hesitant to take the plunge. Which is funny because he is a surfer. He is a great guy and we wish him the best. And hopefully he will soon forgive Mindy for chewing up his iPhone with all his contact info in it. Hard to stay mad at that cute face though.” The Rambos’ also started out on their own for their new adventure living in Panama. We will miss them as our travelling companions and wish them all the best.

For the second time on the trip, Victor needed a boost because of a dead battery. Julie notes “We also wish him no more dead batteries and may it be a long, long time before he has to sleep in his van again!”

A view leaving Volcan.

Julie giving a wave from her perch in the truck while it was being serviced. Julie notes “These guys know how to treat a lady. Up on a pedestal where I belong. No comments on how it took a hoist to get me up there! The iTunes weren’t playing at the time but I’m pretty sure Brad was humming ‘love lifts you up where you belong.'”

Her view of the shop. Julie notes “Doing a little mental Christmas shopping while I was up there. A little something for everyone.”

>..over and out for today, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Julie notes “We also said our good byes to Wally Wally and his family, who had stayed the previous 2 nights in a hotel down the road. They drove by us today as we were at the propane filling station and we radioed hugs to each other. When Wally Wally got on the radio and said ‘Bye Bye Miss Julie’ I had a bit of a cry. He was the perfect little bright spot when I needed one. Thanks for that Wally Wally and keep that sweet side as you grow bigger. But we were able to go on FaceBook today and saw some wonderful pictures of another little sweetie, Melodie, so all will be well.”

Day 56 – Wednesday, August 21, 2013

We hired a young taxi driver, Carlos Vidal, to take us on a 2 hour tour of the area around Volcan, Panama. First, we had bagels, poached eggs, ham and cheese along with some fresh El Salvador coffee to start the day off right. Our friend Victor joined us on the tour. Julie notes “Victor decided to stay one more day before heading to his new place. Probably because the thought of leaving us makes him too sad. Or could be that his place won’t be ready until tomorrow. You decide.”

The area is quite mountainous with rich volcanic soil great for growing vegetables. The mountains are cultivated by horse and single furrow plough as high as they can go. The valleys are farmed with more modern tractors and equipment – largely Massey Ferguson equipment. The mountain fed rivers are fast running, pristine, clear and clean, and abundant. Most of the hillside land is irrigated.

As has been the trend, it rained heavily this afternoon. The power went out in the town the same time Julie and I headed out for lunch in our rain gear. So, it was back to the camper for delicious chicken and guacamole on cheese buns. Yummy stuff.

We took 120 photos today but will only be able to show a sample of the scenery and people of the area.

Julie notes “Peekaboo”.

Carlos and Julie at one of our stops.

A local elementary school. The kids are all in school this time of year. Seems kind of weird to see kids going to school. Most of the kids we’ve seen wear a uniform.

Some ladies in traditional native dress.

Laundry day at this house. Julie notes “It is laundry day, every day it seems as we’ve driven through the last few countries. Laundry hung on fences, roof edges, hedges, and of course clothes lines. I think it may stay out there getting re-rinsed each day until the rainy season ends although I did see 3 cute little kids laughing and jumping up and grabbing laundry way above their heads as the first big drops of rain started falling. We have seen women down at the river washing the clothes on rocks. Hard work. I am once again reminded of how spoiled I am with my all of my automated devices. I vow to enjoy doing laundry from now on. (no-one’s going to hold me to that are they?)”

Applying fertilizer by hand.

Carrot harvest. Julie notes “If you want to really make a Panamanian cab driver laugh just try saying zanahorias (carrots) a few times. We were sure we were saying it just like he was.”

Come home sober to this place or else!

Our campsite at the municipal police compound. Julie notes “Home sweet home. It’s all part of the adventure…”

It can really rain here. A small river forms in the ditch in a few minutes.

….carry on folks, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Day 55 – Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Another border crossing was planned for today from Costa Rica to Panama. We will not spend much time in Costa Rica but it is a beautiful country with some great tourist developments and a spot to come back to someday. Julie notes “I started Brad off with a snappy fun little tune from the iPod called Muleskinner Blues. His mother in-law-Vera would be pleased with that as she dubbed him the muleskinner after he successfully led caravans of relatives across Alberta, BC and beyond on several occasions. It was a good way to start a soon to be hectic border day.”

We had glimpse of the scenic Pacific coastline and mountains as we travelled southward towards Panama. Unfortunately, we reached the border and had to navigate the most chaotic vehicle setup you could imagine. It is pure chaos trying to juggle your vehicle into the right position through a maze of traffic heading in all directions. Panama is quite a progressive, modern country but the border crossing certainly does not demonstrate that to the casual visitor. Julie notes “It was Brad’s turn to turn the airwaves blue as he was forced out of the lineup for the 4^th time by transports and macho traffic policemen with whistles and attitudes. Cover your ears again Wally, Wally.”.

Carlos, our restaurateur host, seeing us off in the morning. Julie notes “Brad was experiencing a bad case of oven envy as Carlos was the proud owner of an authentic, right down to the horse manure, Central American wood burning oven similar to a Forno oven. Hot stuff. Oh well. He already has a hot tamale for a wife. He can’t have everything.”

Our campsite and Julie’s early morning contemplation. What is she contemplating do you suppose? Maybe I don’t want to know. Julie notes “Well let’s pretend she’s NOT contemplating the new whisker she just found. And let’s say this is part of her Tai Chi meditation that she does on stressful border crossing days. Or maybe she’s saying mmmm Chai tea would be tasty right now.”

Costa Rican scenery at 80 km/h.

Duh, which way do I go?

I can’t go anywhere, at least not fast.

The border effects of 7 different processes, all at different locations, on a handsome, intelligent, calm, otherwise mostly sane gringo. Julie notes “Obviously he’s describing Justin, in the pink shirt behind him.”

One of the many money changers hanging out at the border displaying wads of cash.

But with my patient nature, we make it through another border unscathed and hope they mean what they say on their sign. J

Julie notes “For the WTF file (Wow That’s Freaky!) after we finally were able to position ourselves in the line for the 5^th attempt and our 5^th wheel buddies up ahead held their space for us to occupy while a young lad ran along in front of us waving us past other irate drivers into the actual lineup, the Uncle Kracker song ‘Follow me, everything will be alright…’ played out of our itunes. Okay well maybe it didn’t play until after we’d been sitting there for about 30 minutes but I think it still qualifies for a ‘WTF’. Then Cold Play sang to us that ‘nobody said it would be easy, I’m going back to the start..’ and that is when we realized that each time we thought we were done, there was one more person to play charades with in broken Spanglish. But we did it. And Chloe, please cover your ears in doggy heaven, but we were thankful not to have a dog or 4 dogs with us, as even though they had all the documents in order there was one more money grab before our fellow travellers were allowed to cross. Meanwhile we were outside the gates having a chicken and guacamole sandwich.”

We drove on to Volcan at an elevation of about 4000′ above sea level. It is much cooler here. Tonight the temperature is below 20C. We ate at a little outdoor restaurant with our friend Victor who will be departing us tomorrow and heading to his new home a few hours away.

We are camped out in the municipal police compound. Not one of Julie’s favourite camping places but we’ll see what tomorrow has to offer in Volcan. Julie mumbles in her wine ‘glass is half empty’ way “It’s part of the adventure, it’s part of the adventure, it’s part of the adventure…, more wine please.”

…over and out for today, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Day 54 – Monday, August 19, 2013

Note: We posted 4 updates (Day 50 – 53) last time we had a wifi connection. If you are a subscriber, you may not have received all of the notifications for each post. You can however use the navigation and menus if you missed any exciting updates. J

Today we left Lake Nicaragua after our 7:30 AM driver’s meeting. We either meet the night before or the morning of a travel day to review our route, border crossing topics, and any highlights we can expect. Our destination for the day was Parrita, Costa Rica. However, because of a lengthy border crossing process exiting Nicaragua and entering Costa Rica, we only made it to a small place near Jaco, CR before rain and darkness halted our progress. After scouting out a mall that didn’t work for everybody, we settled in across the street at a new restaurant thanks to the owner who came and helped us out. Carlos was a terrific ambassador for Costa Rica and we enjoyed some drinks and conversation with him even though he was closed on Monday.

A crane visited us right outside our back door before leaving Lake Nicaragua. Julie notes “I was pretty worried as for a minute there I thought it was the stork!”

Julie captured this shot of the old farmer whipping his horse as he passes the skateboarder image on the side of the taco truck. I think this picture tells the story of life in Nicaragua! Julie notes “One other ‘sign of the times’ image that sticks in my mind from today was of a rustic looking young lad texting on his phone while riding his horse beside the highway.”

Wind turbines along the shoreline of Lake Nicaragua. Julie notes “Be thankful I did not take a picture of the ever active wind turbine in the seat beside me.”

Life at the border between Nicaragua and Costa Rica.

The drive through Costa Rica is beautiful. Too bad it was raining and dark for most of the afternoon drive.

…another border crossing down, over and out, the muleskinner and his sidekick.

Julie notes “Brad has kindly skimmed over or perhaps already forgotten the several high stress moments of the day, including sudden a change in direction causing our family in the big rig to be blocking 4 lanes of traffic at the gate to a port as they tried to turn to follow the leader. The radio airwaves were a bit blue after that. Hope Wally Wally had his ear phones on. Wish I could say things settled after that but I can’t. Everyone enjoyed the drinks at the bar that night!”

Day 53 – Sunday, August 18, 2013

We spent a lazy day camped on the beach of Lake Nicaragua. It was good to just stay in one place today and not have to do anything. We made a delicious bagel, cream cheese and jam breakfast with fresh coffee. It tasted really good to finally eat something. For lunch, I made some fresh guacamole with tortilla chips. And for dinner, we made some baked potatoes, thick cut pork chops, and fresh carrots. We are trying to cook and eat most of our food before crossing the more restrictive border into Costa Rica tomorrow. We made a pretty good dent in our supplies. Julie notes “Yes. Time to break out the stretchy ‘Christmas dinner’ shorts. I notice Brad didn’t mention the gourmet dinner of toast and tea that I made the sick boy last night. And I added beans and a boiled egg to complete my meal. Just some of my specialties. Oh ya! Pretty and smart and she cooks! The whole package.”

The view of the volcanos, across the lake, changes constantly. We had our recliners out on the beach for most of the day taking in the views, watching the families play on the beach, and enjoying the breeze. Julie notes “This little guy in the orange reminded me of a little Jordan Emond, except Jordan’s bathing suit at the time was a stretchy lime green Speedo style. It was classic. He might still be wearing now it if his grandma hadn’t decided at one point, after a few years of wear, that it was time for a new one.”

We were able to give away some of the kid’s clothes we brought along to a 7 year old girl and her 3 year old brother. We also gave them a colouring book, a ball, and some candies. The father told me, in Spanish, “I was his friend in peace.”

…so go in peace to all my amigos reading this blog, the muleskinner and his sidekick.

Julie notes “There was not a lot of ‘peace’ and quiet however on a busy Sunday at the lake as a live band was playing at the restaurant behind us, cars and motor bikes were continuous up and down the beach but the music was good, kids played and laughed in the water all day and we met a Dr. and family from Nicaragua, who had been to Edmonton U of A for a short stint and who I think I accidentally invited for supper. But our new amigos went in ‘peace’ when they saw we did not have enough ‘pieces’ of food for them. And as a ‘peace’ offering gave us their little Nicaraguan flag from off their car.”

Day 52 – Saturday, August 17, 2013

I guess the good life is not for me. After eating at sketchy places all through Central America with no ill effects, I get caught at the nicest hotel we’ve seen on the trip. The only thing I ate that Julie did not eat was the ceviche. Lesson #1 – Don’t eat the ceviche from a buffet no matter how nice the hotel. I will spare you any further details but Treda is the medication of choice for situations like this. Julie notes “Now don’t get excited thinking Brad won the award for ‘the first person to break out the Treda’. I was awarded that honour a couple weeks ago after I purchased some beach vendor (who looked just my dad) candied squash. Some folks thought I deserved it just for trying such an odd combo. But when in Rome or Mexico….., I do worry though that this means I will not be seeing any more ‘nice restaurants’ for the rest of the trip because of Brad’s experience. He may shy away from those ritzy buffets. We shall see.”

We had a short easy drive today and therefore left a little later than our normal departure time – about 8:30 AM. The highways in Nicaragua are the best we’ve experienced through Central America. They are similar to highways in North America. We had the chance today to stop at the Masaya Volcano. Julie and I drove the road up the mountain in the national park to the rim of the volcano. It is quite an amazing site. Julie notes “Notice how I have politely shied away from comparing his gastric condition to an erupting volcano despite this being the perfect set up for that joke. I am quite proud of myself for my candor. I am always thinking of his feelings.”

Julie trying to get back at me for the border campsite. Let’s just say it was not her favourite spot. Julie notes “He bounced right back up. Damn those ‘one size fits all’ hard hats and volcano fumes! He’s harder to get rid of than hot lava on a shoe.”

Some of the lava fields below the volcano.

After spending an hour or so at the volcano, we headed on towards our destination; the beach near San Jorge, Nicaragua on the shore of Lake Nicaragua. We will spend 2 nights here. I spent the afternoon laying low and having a long siesta trying to recover from the effects of the ceviche. Hopefully, all will be well tomorrow with the help of medication and rest.

A mother holding her infant on the back of a motorcycle in heavy traffic. Just one of the modes of travel here. Only the driver gets a helmet. Julie notes “Driving anything without multiple passengers might be considered a sin here. Bicycles with 2 or 3 passengers, motorbikes with up to 5 riding, (2 adults, 3 kids, the baby bouncing on mom’s knee to the side), trucks packed full of school kids or families, road construction crews riding on the flat beds with their equipment, farmers riding on top of the cattle trucks, people just catching a ride to town and hopping out at their stop, cars and taxis are filled to the brim. No wonder they seem surprised when just the 2 of us emerge from our house on wheels.”

A view from our campsite on Lake Nicaragua. The constant breeze is wonderful with the temperatures in the low 30’s. We have a view of 2 volcanos, Concepcion (5,280′) and Maderas (4,500′) on Ometepe Island. Julie sighs “Ahhhhhhhh….”

…carry on folks, the muleskinner and his sidekick.

Julie sighs again “Ahhhhhh…”

Day 51 – Friday, August 16, 2013

We left the border station this morning, and after a final document and passport check, headed for Managua, Nicaragua. Managua is the capital city of Nicaragua. We are planning on an overnight stop. Our first choice for a campsite was the Airforce Club facility but it was under construction so we headed for Plan B. Plan B was the Camino Real Hotel and Casino. It is a beautiful first class hotel, part of the Westin chain I was told, with all of the amenities you would expect. We enjoyed a beautiful buffet lunch in the dining room. We then spent the afternoon around the outdoor pool having some drinks and visiting with other guests. We went back for dinner. Julie and I had Chateaubriand for two and some Chilean red wine. It was a big tenderloin of beef with four different sauces and two sides. Julie notes “I don’t think I was the only person a little travel weary of parking lots as ‘Wally Wally’s’ family opted for a nice hotel room here to rejuvenate in. A few days back in Mexico, on an early morning fuel stop, seeing the Pemex Station, Wally was heard saying ‘Daddy are we stopping to sleep again?’ Out of the mouths of babes.”

The Nicaraguan countryside

Julie notes “We are always happy to see as part of the scenery, the big white rear end of the 5^th wheel in front of us. A security beacon plus they provide helpful radio banter like ‘pot holes ahead’ it’s clear to pass, just ignore that solid line’, ‘policia is pulling us over, oh nope they’re pulling you over though, haha’ and ‘am I clearing those branches Brad?’ (as part of his vent lid goes bouncing down the road behind him, whoops). The rig is a good indicator for us to slow down or swerve or stop and during one very bumpy stretch, as we followed it through some rough road, the song ‘A Whole Lot of Shakin’ Going On’ appropriately played on the iTunes. The first few days of this trek for them were spent repairing shelves and unloading their heavy items to locals as they tried to make their house on wheels a bit more Latin American road worthy. We benefitted by receiving some yummy home preserves!”

A local market at one of our rest stops. Julie notes “Brad purchased some jalapenos (we think) from the fellow in the striped shirt. You can see them hanging in the second picture. We also found out what the mysterious green fruit was, the size and shape of oranges, that we’d seen growing on feathery trees in fields and along road sides and in yards. It turns out that they are the very exotic and hard to come by ‘verdes naranja’. (For those of you paying attention, that is Espanola for green oranges. Not so exotic or mysterious after all, just not ripened fully. I got the ‘loco gringo’ look when I asked what they were. Hombre, was my face rojo!)”

Along this particular stretch of highway, locals will sell exotic birds on the side of the road. Only exotic to us, I guess.

Typical street scene. Bicycles, horses, oxen, mules, motorcycles are common modes of transportation.

Having lunch in the dining room at the Camino Real Hotel & Casino Julie notes “It was nice having a crunchy salad. That is something we have been missing. And I will admit I enjoyed my fair share of the other foods as well. We declined dessert but our fellow diners taste tested them all.”

The hotel has an outdoor display of exotic birds. Julie notes “Polly want a cracker? No thanks. But a nice marguerite on the rocks poolside would be excellent!”

The sidekick. She’s a little happier with this campsite, I think. Julie notes “Yes, turns out all parking lots are NOT created equal. A note to Aunt Lynne and Uncle Herb…do you recognize anything in this picture. They have sure been the ticket down here.”

…carry on folks, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Day 50 – August 15, 2013

Today was a day about crossing borders and camping at borders. We left San Miquel in El Salvador about 6:30 AM and headed for the Honduras border. Border crossings here are at a minimum a 2 step process. You have to exit the country you are departing with all the appropriate stamps and paperwork and then enter the new country. Today we exited El Salvador, entered Honduras, exited Honduras and entered Nicaragua. The border crossing times were actually quite good at about a 6 hour total for all 4 border processes. We met an ex Canadian retired military guy today who seemed ill prepared for this trip. He has suffered numerous vehicle breakdowns, paid over $1000 in bribes, and spent 12 hours entering Guatemala. It makes us feel a little better about going with a group and guide. We have not suffered any of those problems to date.

A local farmer watching us stopped by the side of the road early in the morning. Julie notes “See the chickens Melodie?”

Some of the countryside.

Entering Honduras. Julie notes “We made some friends at the borders because an idling vehicle is a potential buyer of the many wares that people are selling there. Money exchangers flap their large wads of bills at us, hammocks and cookies and meats and maybe hamburgers(something wrapped like a burger?) and pretty much anything you can imagine are offered for a price as you sit awaiting the paper chase to be completed. Women carrying their wares in baskets or large basins balanced on their heads, water being hauled in everything from traditional style jugs to plastic carboys. Most of the women vendors we have seen through these last 3 countries wear beautiful aprons with lots of colourful eyelet and lace. I have yet to get a good picture but I know mom would love them. It is hard to tell who actually works for the border authorities and who is just working for tips as random men voluntarily guide you and hop onto your running boards as you drive along giving you directions and suggestions, offering to run and buy reflector strips for your vehicle, warning you about other schemers and so on. Curious boys come up to the window wanting to talk and maybe get some money or a treat. Brad gave out a Trumpeter Swan pin (City of GP logo) and a Canada flag pin to one boy who was practising English on us and helping us with some Española. Word spread and we had boys and men of all ages coming to the windows for pins and then proudly displaying them on their shirts. Except for one woman, who was trying to sell hers for a dollar. More power to her if she was successful. We shared our photo albums as well with those interested. ‘Mucho frio’ was the unanimous comment when they saw the ‘very cold’ snow pictures. It was the very opposite to that there! We were lucky to be able to turn on the air every once in a while. During one cooling reprise Willie Nelson was belting out ‘Just can’t wait to get on the road again!’ Brad rolled down the windows and turned up the volume. Our hint must’ve been heard as we were soon moving again.”

Julie notes “These little 3 wheeler taxis were very abundant and used by many. They go about 15 miles per hour we guess but some have added air foils on the top to cut down on drag and improve the speed we are assuming? I wasn’t fast enough to ever get my camera ready to get a picture of one with the air foil so maybe, just maybe it works. It certainly made them cuter!”

Along the pothole filled roads of Honduras small children stand in the middle of the highway begging for money with a shovel in hand pretending to fix the potholes.

We travelled over a high mountain pass which climbed from sea level to 1070m. The scenery was beautiful, the homes seemed a little more affluent, and the people were very friendly. Many of the kids, and even the adults waved or gave a thumbs up as we passed by.

We exited Honduras and spent the night at the border crossing after our vehicles were fumigated and we entered Nicaragua. Julie notes “Could’ve saved them the trouble of fumigating if they’d known how many meals containing beans Brad has had lately. You wanna talk toxic fumes!”

Believe me, not everything on this trip is spectacular. Spending the night at the border crossing may be safe, and even cooler because of the elevation, but it is certainly not picturesque, quiet, and serene. Julie notes “Especially when your wife is not happy. A good night for a hair wash and early shut eye. Never thought there would be a night I’d break Brad’s 7:20 pm bed time but it happened. It was probably a bit more serene for Brad after that.”

This is Julie trying to escape but I caught her before she could say “Nicaragua”!

….over and out for today, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Julie notes “Just keep repeating ‘it’s all part of the adventure, it’s all part of the adventure, it’s all part of the adventure…'”

Day 49 – Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Today we travelled along highway CA-1 from San Vicente to San Miguel in El Salvador. It was a short trip of less than 100 kilometres. Our destination was a mall parking lot – again. It is locked and patrolled at night but during the day it is a first class mall with many name brand high end shops. Most of the restaurants are fast food type places but we had a great brunch of homemade food in Lesly’s. There is another volcano visible from the parking lot and the scenery today was tropical and mountainous with thermal steam rising occasionally from underground sources. Julie notes, “Oh there was steam rising alright, when the 5^th wheel in our group became wedged in the mall parking entrance. Quick thinking, many swear words, some of his tools and some local help resolved the situation but the already caliente situation became even more caliente-er.”

Early morning San Vincente street scene.

San Vincente bridge.

El Salvador campo (countryside). Julie notes “Bonito!'”

Julie was able to find a salon and get her hair cut. After some charades they were able to figure out what she wanted. Julie notes “These lovely ladies were ever so helpful. And my cut cost $6, less than Brad paid the other day I think. So now good luck telling us apart because I think we got the same haircut. Short and sassy.”

Our mall campsite for restocking with a view of the volcano in the background. We were able to buy an unlocked smart phone here and will now be able to purchase SIM cards as we travel. Julie notes “Watch out folks, I have weeks’ worth of texts I have been holding in wanting to send. I may blow up your phones. I think that is the cool hip word for that.”

We travel straight through Honduras tomorrow and then into Nicaragua. The border crossing into Honduras has a bad reputation for long waits and corruption. We’ll see how it goes tomorrow. We took in an English speaking movie with Spanish subtitles, The Hangover, Part III, and then went to Pizza Hut for something to eat. It was one of the few places open after 9:00 PM. Julie notes “I can now add the ‘F’ bomb and several other similar type words to my slowly growing Spanish vocabulary. This movie gives you ample chances to read those translations in the subtitles if you happen to be studying ‘how to say naughty words in other languages’ but overall it was actually not bad for a 3^rd-quel.”

…over and out for today, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Julie notes “2^nd song out of the iTunes bank on this first morning back in the sidekick saddle was “I’ll Fly Away”, a favourite of Mom and Dad’s. It was in the list of songs that I had playing in the church this past weekend and we would all sing along with it. So a few tears fell this morning. When we reached our mall parking lot ‘campground’ Jann Arden’s “Good Mother”, also one of Mom’s church songs, started playing. There would’ve been more tears but our attention was then focused on the drama unfolding behind us in the wedged mall entryway. But I sure felt you today Mom and Dad – to quote Jann ‘I have a good mother, her voice is what keeps me here, feet on ground, heart in hand, facing forward, be yourself … I have a good father, his strength is what makes me cry, feet on ground, heart in hand, facing forward, be yourself. Just be yourself …'”