Day 8 – Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Today was the day we drove the ice road from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk and back.  It is about 185 kilometres one way.

Leaving Inuvik, we drove by the “Smartie Boxes” as they are referred to locally.

Julie notes “Don’t worry about that little crack in the ice honey bun” Brad kept saying.  All those episodes of Ice Road Truckers I was forced to watch tell me it’s time for the dramatic music and maybe an under ice camera view to see the ice moving and the water sloshing. “

After topping up with diesel, at $1.790/litre, it was onto the ice road.  The temperature stayed around -24C to -26C all day.  With windchill it felt like -35C.  It is still winter in the north!  Julie notes “Don’t worry about that little crack in the ice honey bun” Brad kept saying.  All those episodes of Ice Road Truckers I was forced to watch tell me it’s time for the dramatic music and maybe an under ice camera view to see the ice moving and the water sloshing. ”

This does not show the windchill of -35C! Brrrr

Two crazy Canucks looking through the ice on the Beaufort Sea.  Julie notes ‘duth amybubby hab acup ub warmb waddur?  Note to self – don’t kiss the ice road!”

Pingos, mounds of earth covered ice found in the Arctic,  as we approached Tuk.

Tuktoyaktuk.  We were at about 69.46 N, -133.04 W. 

Tuktoyaktuk.  We were at about 69.46 N, -133.04 W.  I’m not sure if you can drive further north in Canada or not but this is getting up there.  Julie notes “Is there such a thing as joining the ‘As far north as you can drive’ club? or is Brad trying to trick me again?”

…signing off from Inuvik, NT

…be of good spirit

Julie notes “Our 2,802 song iTunes library has been shuffling lots of great tunes our way during our journey.  Of note, we ended yesterday poetically, with one of my mom’s favourites, ‘Hallelujah’, sung by KD Lang’, as we always have my dad and her in our thoughts as we travel this great country they love so much.  Today, after our tires made the first few crunches on the ice road, Van Morrison ,on cue sang ‘Down the road I go’ as if the shuffle gods knew how exciting an achievement this was for Brad.”

Day 7 – Tuesday, April 2, 2013

I forgot to mention yesterday, April 1, that is was 33 years ago that we left Camborne, ON for a few years in the West.  Who would have thought that 33 years later we would be in Eagle Plains, YT?  Julie notes “We celebrated in the hotel restaurant surrounded by an amazing display of stuffed wildlife including musk ox, moose and mountain goats and historical pictures telling the story of the Mad Trapper of Rat River.  This might seem strange to some but I’ve been travelling with a mad old goat for years, 33 years in fact.”

Eagle Plains – everything you need in convenient stop

We arrived in Inuvik, NT today after driving the northern half of the Dempster highway from Eagle Plains, YT.  Another amazing drive. The temperature today varied from a high of -16C to a low of -24C.   Julie notes ‘Until yesterday our temps had been wavering plus and minus 6 degrees around zero.  We remembered what serious wind chill felt like today.  Brad has blocked the weather app from my phone so that every day is a surprise.  He HAS however emphasized a couple times today that he is getting his long johns out for tomorrow.  That is a bit worrisome.”

We crossed the Arctic Circle – 66o 33′ North. WooHoo! Julie notes “It may look like we’re having fun but we’re really just trying to stay warm.”

Shortly after leaving Eagle Plains, YT we crossed the Arctic Circle – 66o 33′ North. WooHoo! 

After crossing the Arctic Circle, I tried to convince Julie it was like joining the mile high club, but she wouldn’t be fooled so easily, (again) haha :-).  Julie notes “You can only fool me with that kind of line four times and then I’m on to you!”

The scenery along the Dempster was spectacular!

A long Canadian hard road – as Sam Roberts sings in his song.

Time to set the clocks ahead an hour.  Julie notes “Looks like we are trying to set our internal clocks in this picture but again we are just trying to keep warm.  No Arctic Circle Mile High monkey business here either! Brrrr but Wow!”

Soon after crossing the Arctic Circle, we crossed into the Northwest Territories.  Time to set the clocks ahead an hour. 

Fort McPherson mail drop

We stopped in Fort McPherson, an aboriginal community of about 900 people on the banks of the Peel River, long enough for Julie to mail a postcard to some family.

We crossed the MacKenzie River ice bridge at Tsiigehtchic (Arctic Red River).  After a brief tour of the hamlet, we stopped for lunch in the middle of the mighty MacKenzie River.  Julie notes” And in case you are wondering, NO Arctic Circle Mile High funny business in the middle of the MacKenzie River either!”

Tsiigehtchic (Arctic Red River) church keeping an eye on the couple ‘parking’ in the middle of the Mackenzie River

A church is perched high on the banks of the river.  Julie notes “Probably to keep an eye on people parked in the middle of river who are thinking about joining the Arctic Circle Mile High club.”

The wildlife sighting for today were foxes.  Julie notes “Oh I assumed there would be another picture of me here! hmmph. Definitely NO Arctic Circle Mile High foxy business for him!”

Our Lady of Victory, Inuvik – referred to as the Igloo Church

We arrived in Inuvik with time to tour a bit of the town.

Downtown Inuvik

The Nova Hotel, Inuvik

We found our hotel and prepared to check-in.  The Nova hotel was rated high on Trip Advisor and did not disappoint.  Julie notes “Well it might still disappoint someone who really wants to be inducted into the Arctic Circle Mile High club.”

Where else in the world can you check into your hotel with 4 dog sleds parked out front?  Julie notes ‘Well that just turned me to mush. haha get it?”

But where else in the world can you check into your hotel with 4 dog sleds parked out front?  Julie notes ‘Well that just turned me to mush. haha get it?”

…over and out from Inuvik,  Brad notes “wink, wink.”

…on to the Ice Road tomorrow to Tuktoyaktuk

Day 6 – Monday, April 1st, 2013

We are in Eagle Plains, YT tonight after a spectacular drive on the Dempster Highway.

The Dempster is one of the truly great Canadian roadways. Completed only in the late 1970’s, the Dempster is still the only fully public road in North America to cross the Arctic Circle.  That will be one of the highlights tomorrow.

We started in Dawson City, YT this morning.  We attempted to make a dent in the Braeburn Lodge cinnamon bun, toured the town a bit, and did some grocery shopping before heading out on the highway.

Julie notes ‘To get the scale of this bun, the yellow plate is a full size picnic plate. If we get stranded somewhere we will be able to live off this bun for a week or so. I am not sure how to count the calories on my Fitness pal. Couldn’t find gi-normous bun in the data base, but we will have gi-normous buns if we ate too many of them.”

We are having trouble uploading photos on this internet connection.  We have been fighting for 3 hours trying to get some photos uploaded.  We will try and post the rest tomorrow.

We drove up Dome road to get a view of Dawson City and the Yukon River.

Dome Road view of Dawson City and Yukon River

Then it was on to a bulk fuel station where, after fighting with the unmanned cardlock system, we were able to fill up for $1.440 versus $1.729 in town. Julie notes “There was talk about having to use the ‘big nozzle’ but that sounded a little personal so I didn’t ask questions.”  And then it was on to the Dempster highway.

We made multiple stops along the way for photos.  We saw numerous ptarmigans on the southern part of the Dempster.  Julie notes “One disgruntled ptarmigan wasn’t happy with the paparazzi and literally flipped us the bird with his tail feathers along with some indignant clucks.”  We stopped for lunch and got out the BBQ and made some delicious burgers. The scenery was amazing and the views of the Oglive mountains were spectacular.

Spectacular Oglive Mountain views

Ptarmigan flipping us the bird

Best burger truck stop!

Hopefully, more pictures will be uploaded tomorrow from Inuvik.

Again, we are thinking of Julie’s mom and dad, and 2 uncles.  …take care all

Day 5 – Sunday, March 31, 2013

Whitehorse paddle wheeler

Today was a longer day driving at about 600 kilometers.   You learn first hand just how expansive our country is when you explore it in a vehicle.  We left Northern Lights after another big breakfast with our hosts.  We drove into Whitehorse for a car wash, fuel, and Tim Horton’s coffee. We made a quick stop at the paddle wheeler.

Braeburn Lodge, home of the famous giant cinnamon buns!

We headed north on the Klondike highway after leaving Whitehorse.  Our first stop was the Braeburn Lodge for their giant cinnamon buns.  We bought one for $9.00 …Julie’s note “Yikes!” …but were too full from breakfast to eat.  We will share it tomorrow morning and will post a picture if we remember and if our fingers aren’t too sticky. 

Overlook of the Five Finger Rapids, Yukon River

We made another highway stop at an overlook of the five fingers rapids on the Yukon River.  I think it would be better viewing in the summer when you could get a sense of the water flow around the islands but it is still quite a view in the winter.

Old Raven!

While we were stopped, there was a raven playing and making all kinds of sounds. I was able to get his picture while he was sitting on the sign.

Old Crow!

Suddenly, I heard another funny sound and spun around just in time to see an old crow. (SHHH!  She won’t read this blog will she?)  Julie notes “Hope the old coot knows how to sleep with one eye open. We have decided we would fit right in in Dawson City if we were about 25 years younger or if we grow white beards. Since we can’t make ourselves younger, beards it is. As a Holmes girl I am up to the challenge.”

Lunch break just past Pelly Crossing

We made a lunch stop just past Pelly Crossing and had some great sandwiches at another roadside turnout – better than any subway.

After more driving through sun, clouds, and snow flurries we stopped to view the Tintina Trench at an overlook. Julie notes “I read all the points of interest signs along the way and find it all very interesting. My recall sucks though and by the time I get back to the truck I can’t remember if I read 450 …kms, feet, years, kabillion years, species of birds migrating or freckles on an arctic fox… but I do remember the name of the little white bird we have been seeing in little flocks rising up out of the ditches as we drive along… a hairy chested nut scratcher… but goes by the formal name of snow bunting.

Overlook of Tintina Trench

We arrived in Dawson City, YT just after 5:00 PM and checked into our hotel, the Aurora Inn.  It is very quiet in Dawson in March.  Many of the restaurants, hotels, and businesses are closed.  Probably even more so on Easter Sunday. Love the look of the old gold rush here though. They’ve worked to keep it looking authentic.

We were directed to a restaurant but it was closed so found a pub, Bombay Peggy’s for a couple of drinks and an appetizer.  There was a BBQ out on the street so we grabbed a couple of the last smokies.  It was very popular and they ran out of food and condiments by the time we got there. Julie notes “No kissing the ‘sour toe’ tonight and no, that’s not a pet name for Brad.”

Dawson City, YT

Our thoughts today are with Julie’s parents, Jim and Vera, who both have health challenges, also Julie’s Uncle Ron who broke his hip in Coquitlam, BC, and again her Uncle Herb and Aunt Lynne.  We hope they are all making improvements and wish them a speedy recovery.

…over and out from Dawson City

Day 4 – Saturday, March 30, 2013

Today was a very relaxing day for Julie and I, mostly.  We started out with a continental breakfast in the main lodge with a few other guests.  It tasted fantastic and the scenery was spectacular.

We had booked some massages for later in the day but after the big breakfast and before being pampered, we decided to do a recommended hike through the Yukon wilderness. The trail climbed to a lookout and then we followed a ridge line and eventually circled back. The snow was still deceivingly deep. If you stepped off the hard pack, you found out the hard way just how deep it was. See photos.

Julie notes “I’m smiling in this picture, but the air was a bit fouled when both of my legs  and my trekking pole were stuck in snow past my knee. Brad has natural snowshoes with those giant feet of his. I definitely worked for my apple pie and whipped cream dessert.”

We had a bite to eat in our cabin and then a long soak in the outdoor hot tub.  It felt good after the 2 hour hike. Julie notes ‘One of the best parts of the trip so far is watching Brad hit the camera timer and then scramble out of a snow bank or in this case, over the side of the hot tub. It sure makes me smile. Although a little splashy sometimes.”

Imagine Brad clicking the camera timer, leaping over the side and settling in with a smile and lots of splashes.

It was soon time for a sauna and massage in the main lodge.  Then back to our cabin for a cocktail before our German supper in the main lodge.

Our cozy cabin.

At the table with the other B&B guests.

Our hosts, Wolfgang and Renate of Northern Lights Resort & Spa.

Before ending the post for today, we want to give a shout out to Uncle Herb and Aunt Lynne from Sheridan Lake, BC who are facing some serious medical challenges.  We are thinking about them and hoping for the best.

Day 3 – Friday, March 29, 2013

I hate to say it again, but what a great day.  We left Fort Nelson with full coffee mugs and a full tank of diesel, and headed to Whitehorse, well actually 23 km from Whitehorse at Northern Lights Resort and Spa. (http://www.northernlightsyukon.com/)  An easy days drive at around 425 kilometers.  I had booked this place last November to try and entice Julie into joining me on this adventure.  It worked! (Some of the remaining stops, especially north of Dawson City, will be a little more, shall we say, rustic.)

We arrived here in the early afternoon and were greeted by the great German couple that own and built the log cabins and spa on 160 acres.  We had a tour of the facilities and then Julie and I had a soak in the outdoor hot tub while enjoying the views of the surrounding mountains.  Julie notes ‘We narrowly escaped an embarrassing hot tub faux pas as Brad made the rookie mistake of forgetting his bathing suit at the Liard Hot Spring change room.  Luckily he remembered just before we drove off and we made the double trek back up the somewhat slippery boardwalk to retrieve it.  Doubling our exercise for yesterday and no commando in the hot tub today. So we have not been banned from this spa…yet!  We still have massages and saunas tomorrow.”

We made some supper in our private cabin with kitchenette.  We enjoyed some cold cuts, veggies, spinach and yogurt dip, cheeses and a nice bottle of wine.

Before leaving Watson Lake we made the obligatory stop at the sign post forest.  The information centre was closed but you can still browse through the forest.

We saw another small herd of caribou today about 2 minutes after leaving Fort Nelson. Tis the season for caribou migration.

The drive through the mountains on a mostly sunny day with crisp snow gleaming from the slopes is hard to beat.

We arrived in Teslin just in time for a nice lunch at the Yukon Motel and Restaurant on the banks of Teslin Lake.   Julie notes “The washrooms were a clean and a welcome sight after some definite ‘no goes’ along the highway.”

The bridge crossing the lake is impressive.

We are booked into the Northern Lights Resort and Spa for 2 nights.  We have a massage booked for tomorrow and a German style supper in the main lodge.  Stay tuned for more updates.

Thanks for all the comments.  It is difficult to respond to each one as we are traveling but, rest assured, we enjoy reading them and seeing them posted. Keep them coming!

Day 2 – Thursday, March 28, 2013

What a great day today!  Great weather, beautiful scenery, lots of wildlife viewing, and a soak in the natural hot springs.

We travelled from Fort Nelson to Watson Lake today. BC time had us up early and out on the road by 9:15 after our yogurt and berries. It is about 520 kilometers.  We stopped at a cute truck stop in Toad River to refill our coffee mugs. Once again Julie approved of the facilities and however tempted, she did not buy the ‘so cute’ Toad River souvenir baby’s outfits. Julie notes ‘We can still pick some up on the way back home.’ Maybe she’ll be snoozing when we pass that way again.

We spotted Stone sheep. They seemed to be voguing for us. Move a bit and strike a pose. Noticeably different than the Dahl sheep we are used to seeing near Jasper. 

Bison, over sixty in total by the time we reached Watson Lake. A few big fellows on the highway just daring us to come closer! No baby cabbies (Melodie speak) yet though (as our grand-baby would say).

…and caribou (they were right on the highway but scurried up the bank and proceeded to moon us!)

We stopped for a BBQ and a soak in the Liard Hot Springs.

Brad entertained the other bathers with his click and dash from the camera in to pose position. One wrong move though clunked his leg into a cement bench. And it left a mark. Julie notes ‘I was not planning on piggy backing him back out over the somewhat treacherous icy walkway. Lucky for him he could still walk, otherwise some hungry bear coming out of hibernation would have found his lucky first meal. Poached Brad.’

And then finally entered the Yukon… (but is the Yukon ready for us?)

Before we left Fort Nelson we met a guy living the dream! We don’t have a rig like that so we are staying in Watson Lake in A Nice Motel. That is actually the name and they did not lie. It is very nice. But not as nice as this.

Day 1- Wednesday, March 27, 2013

We started our Ice Road adventure today driving from Grande Prairie, AB to Fort Nelson, BC, while our tans are still sort of fresh from our recent Mexico trip. We drove about 580 km today.  This is the first stage on our Pan American highway adventure. It was a gorgeous spring day with sunny skies showing off the distant mountain peaks and temperatures around 4C-5C. As you can see in the pictures below we did the tourist photo op at Mile Zero in Dawson Creek. We were ‘those’ people popping out in between traffic to get the shot. Only got honked at once though. Will have to try harder next time. We stopped at the Alaska Highway Mile 80 rest area for lunch. We have a couple of coolers with us and made some great sub sandwiches to go along with our remaining Tim Horton’s coffees. Julie notes  ‘This rest area had wonderful warm and clean washrooms.’ She is taking after her parents who were our washroom inspectors on previous trips. But I have to agree with her. Tonight we are staying at the Woodlands Inn, a locally owned hotel. Very nice room but some of the lights don’t work so I am typing this to the light of the TV. That is my excuse for any errors you might find.  We tried the One restaurant at our hotel for supper.  Rated #2 on Trip Advisor for Fort Nelson.  The #1 rated restaurant, Triple G, was closed. 🙂 or at least that was what we assumed  the snowbanks in front of the main door indicated.  Pretty good food at the One even though it was our number Two choice.  Some great thai curry mussels as an appetizer.

Entering BC

Alaska highway sign post at Mile 0 in Dawson Creek, BC

Trying to get a picture without getting run over! 🙂

A typical view along highway 97 in northern BC.

We paid our deposit today for the “Trek of the Americas” RV trip with Adventuretours RV Tours.  We will be leaving McAllen, TX on July 25, 2013. But first we will drive the Ice Road to Tuktoyaktuk, NT, Canada leaving later this month. It is exciting to see this all coming together!