Day 97 – Tuesday, October 1, 2013

We awoke this morning and departed the Victoria area around 8:00 AM after a little calmer discussion in the morning. Norm let us know how he has seen dead bodies and horror and we have not and therefore somehow our safety was his utmost concern. Hopefully, only one more day with this guy. Julie notes “He told us ‘Even if he doesn’t like us and Brad isn’t a gentleman in his books, he is still going to look out for us’ (like we’ve paid him to). What a saint.”

With that ugly episode behind us and the hopes of being in or near the US today, we were on our way. We travelled from Victoria through Monterey and on to Nuevo Laredo and finally crossed the border into Laredo, TX. Julie notes “I still can’t believe it myself!”

The school was just getting ready to open when we were departing the Victoria area. Julie notes “Well today seemed to be ‘more casual Tuesday’ after the ‘full uniform Monday’ so no shots of the beautiful plaid outfits that the girls were wearing yesterday. A few of the boys in this shot are wearing the red shirts and beige pants or shorts. Up the street behind our camper was a kindergarten on one side and a high school on the other side. Different uniforms for each of those as well. Definitely an easy way to know who was supposed to be where. After travelling and seeing so many kids working when it appeared to be school hours for others I was happy to see all these kids eagerly waiting to get into their school grounds.”

We were greeted with a beautiful sunrise.

Twelve or more guys on their way to work. Julie notes “One of my other obsessions – Modes of human transport. Often hard to get a good snap when we’re rushing down the highway but these fellas (and gal who was the lucky passenger seat traveler this morning) were stopped getting a few snacks for the day. Two or three more fellas climbed into the back and off they went.”

The Red Cross were moving supplies somewhere. We’re not really sure what, where, or why. Julie notes “Maybe our guide hired them in case we needed medical attention. He was very concerned about our safety, pointing out every police car that we encountered yesterday and today, in validation of his choice of routes. We had no problem with his choice of routes. It was well patrolled and the scenery amongst the South Sierra Madres was beautiful. Just quit stalling and get us to the border.”

Some more scenery from northern Mexico. Julie notes “The scenery was beautiful but there were very few chances to get a shot without a power line in it. I think my photographer bother Corrie once told me though, on a trip up to Aylen Lake, ‘those things are part of the scenery too’ so I will try to live by that.”

Our McDonalds lunch stop in Monterey. It appears to be a fairly large modern city with more influence from the US than what you see further south. Julie notes “Nice spot for a city, mountains everywhere you look. (Once you look past the McDonalds, Starbucks and iHop signs, I know Corrie ‘They are part of the scenery too!’ This new mantra is harder than I thought it would be.) Our camera battery died just as we were getting close to the famous Monterrey Saddle Mountain so you can imagine what that looks like or google it.”

North of Monterey to the border is mostly desert.

We can see Laredo across the Rio Grande!

Are we going to have to swim or will we be able to out-smart our guide and get him to cross the border? We indicated that we were OK staying on the Mexico side for the night and then it was his idea to cross into the US. YES! Julie notes “Yes a mix of reverse psychology and several failed attempts to find a parking lot that would let us stay Mexico side for the night. Norm comes up with this great idea that since it is only 4 in the afternoon, let’s cross over into the states. He is a genius! As it turns out his US car insurance doesn’t come into effect until tomorrow so that is possibly why he was trying to hold us hostage one more day in Mexico.”

Approaching the US border Julie notes “Get ready to see the end of ‘the end’ of this motorhome in front of us.”

…and then a complete scan and we were cleared to enter the US of A. Julie notes “I had to disembark as Brad drove through the scanner. I was not allowed to take pictures of the process but again using your imagination, as Brad passes the truck through the machine you could see the whole truck glowing bright orange and then green with puffs of smoke and then I could actually see Brad’s skeletal outline and all his fillings. Well actually I looked the other way so that they couldn’t scan my brainwaves and know what I was thinking so I am not really sure what the whole process looked like. But I bet that that was fairly accurate. I hope it didn’t zap Brad too badly. Emily is still hoping for a little baby sibling. I would need the help of those many Virgin Mary shrines we’ve passed by with perhaps a Mayan fertility idol thrown in for good measure.”

Our guide invited us to join him at a buffet place and we accepted. We thanked him for getting us back to the US safely which he did. We then found the Walmart parking lot for the night. Julie notes “Well we again followed Norm’s lead and parked beside him for the LAST time! We got all comfy and set up and relaxed and security comes and asks us to move. So yes I know what you are all saying, ‘Have they not learned anything in these past 2 months? Why are we still listening to Norm?’ I think we might need some deprogramming.”

Julie kisses the ground showing her thankfulness for being north of the border. Julie notes “It was a symbolic gesture. My lips never touched the asphalt. It was very yucky. And I mean no disrespect to the countries we travelled through. Most of our relief is from finally completing our contract with a certain person and not having that hanging over us anymore. It has caused us much anxiety and many sleepless nights. The other relief is that Brad can finally find a place to order a large coffee and quit whining (a relief to me).”

…over and out, the happy muleskinner and his happy sidekick

Julie notes “Trying to sum up how I feel about our whirlwind journey through Mexico and Central America is hard. I have regrets about what I didn’t do to prepare and how things panned out for us but have no regrets about going on this adventure. We have seen spectacular things, learned from amazing historical sites and fabulous cultural experiences, met wonderful people, laughed with families and gasped at the some of the living conditions we saw, driving past, unable to help the situation even if we stopped. Many smiling faces waved at us as we went past but for every one of those there were the tired and hot people, trying to go about their daily lives, as we roared past them in our air conditioned unit. I don’t blame them at all for not jumping up and down with joy when they saw us coming. From what we saw the people work hard. Everything from getting water to getting wood for the cooking fire to working the fields to getting around in a big city is hard. They love their children and walk or ride or drive them to and from school, holding their hands with their other babes in arms, no fancy strollers. The children often work as well, carrying the empty water jugs, loads of wood, smaller siblings or wares for sale. I have come down with what I think must be photographer’s remorse. Not sure there really is such a thing but I felt it in the pictures that ‘I just missed’ and some that I did take that I felt may have made the subject feel uncomfortable. What we saw was interesting and different to us but we tried not to make people feel like an oddity but there were a couple times that I wished I’d kept my big camera nose to myself. And of course again I must say that I had the princess role in this journey. Brad sweated, lugged, worried, drove both frontwards and backwards and sometimes sideways and managed to get us out of whatever jam we encountered. I can’t thank him enough for that. (Don’t tell him that though as I plan to hold this misadventure over his head for years to come.) We seem to attract misadventures so please stay tuned to our blog as we try to decide ‘what happens in the afterNorm’.”

Day 96 – Monday, September 30, 2013

How bad are we? We failed to mention the 4^th anniversary of our son and daughter-in-law on September 26^th. Happy Anniversary Jordan and Alison. Julie notes “Jordan, I’m pretty sure that our mother and son dance song ‘Mama’ played on your anniversary day (give or take a day or 2) but it made me laugh and remember your special day. We’re proud of the strong couple you have become and the hard work, fun and love you put into your relationship. Love the PUs. Now a few more grandkids wouldn’t make us sad. Just saying.”

Today was a big travel day. We left the beach around 8:00 AM and headed north. Our guide would make a decision at Tampico on which of the 3 routes we would take back to the US. We headed to the Federal Policia office at the airport in Tampico to check on routes. They advised us to take the route through Victoria and Monterey to Laredo, TX. This route was a few hundred kilometres longer but maybe safer. We made it to a small village near the airport in Victoria where we camped for the night. That left about 520 kilometres for tomorrow and a border crossing.

I spoke with our guide that night about getting an early start so we could ensure making back to the US or at least make our best effort. He said that he never travels in the border area of Mexico before 8:30 or 9:00. This is when the worst of the muleskinner appeared to Julie’s horror and disappointment. This was clearly not true. I pointed out to him that on July 28 we left McAllen, TX at 6:30 and crossed into Mexico before 7:30 AM. This was just one more of his misinformation statements that pushed me over the edge, unfortunately. Two things that I inherited from my dad that trigger my temper are people who are not trustworthy and/or honourable. I will spare you further details about my rant and tirade but will tell you that he wrote up a little report on the incident. We did not get a copy, so we’re not sure what his version of events looks like. Julie notes “I’d like to put a humorous spin on this but I don’t see how. Although I agreed with the points Brad was trying to make, his frustration with the situation overrode his better judgement, BIG TIME! Unfortunately it garnered the attention of the locals and there is probably a new folk song about the Windmill Man. Maybe cousin Barb, who seems to always have her ear on the latest folk trends, has heard it and can give us the lyrics. I’m thinking it starts off a little like this ‘Oh, oh Windmill Man, where ya gonna run to…”

There were lots of kids in the area playing soccer and visiting with us. We found a little more candy to pass around. This was the last of our candy, for sure. Julie notes “Well I have 2 restaurant mints and a few tums on reserve in my purse, if need be. Brad has enjoyed his ‘Albert’ moments for sure as giving out candy was something his dad would do at the store. I am also happy to note that Brad did not strike a deal with one funny young man, the night before, who was trying to trade his motorbike for; the truck and camper. Once he found out that I was one of the options that came with camper he wasn’t as interested anymore. He really gave everyone the giggles imitating us driving the motorcycle on our Canadian icy roads.”

Our campsite near the beach at Tuxpan with the lighthouse nearby. Julie notes “Okay this brings me to our nocturnal story for this campground. If you recall we were enjoying our beachfront camping spot immensely, probably letting our relaxed happiness show too much. Because right about the time we are smiling and sighing and letting our guard down a bit, enjoying the breeze and the view, our guide comes along and tells us we have to move up to the dirty, hot, garbage filled parking lot for safety reasons. So we enjoyed the beach as long as we could and then packed up and moved where Norm was parked. We understand the safety in numbers and well lit areas so resigned ourselves to the new sleeping spot. Not only was it much hotter than the beach, but it was across from a popular beach restaurant with the obligatory thumping music. We’re pretty used to that by now but if you look at the picture below you can see the lighthouse behind us. We had our blinds and windows open in hopes of a breeze but even blinds wouldn’t block out the intense strobe light that of course goes all night long. We were right in its path and accompanied with the music, it was like we were trapped in a hot and steamy discothèque. Brad was tempted to don his John Travolta suit that he always carries with him for moments just like this. It was another long night.”

Julie notes “Okay Kelly M. since you were so smart with your other cement answer, what is this structure? If it helps, there was another identical one located down the beach. Accepting all guesses. Your prize will be first choice from the beach accessory wagon we purchased the other day.”

In Tuxpan, they have a beautiful divided boulevard along the river, lined with palm trees, and what we now know are exercise machines stationed at various intervals. Julie notes “We figured it out because a block up the street, most were in use as it was early morning. Yesterday afternoon when we passed the other way, I thought they were some surfboard inspired modern art.”

Some of the scenery along the way.

We stopped to get some fresh “string” like cheese. Very good stuff. Julie notes “Yes he was seriously this happy.”

Crossing the large bridge into Tampico.

The land flattens out as you move further north. There is some fertile farmland with mountains in the distance. Julie notes “You farming folk out there, what is this crop? It looks similar to a corn plant when it starts out, then grows a tall flowered spike that turns the yellow that you see here. Many fields of it. We’d ask our guide but he’s full of manure most of the time.”

The obligatory laundry shot. Julie notes “Bonus, a nice pink house for Jaime. She wanted one when she was in her pink phase growing up. Maybe she still does?”

My friends in the small village near Victoria where we camped for the night. Julie notes “Some of these guys would pass by us up and down the sidewalk saying ‘hello, goodbye’, using their English words as we were replying in Spanish. They thought they were hilarious. This was a very nice school ground and the uniforms a beautiful red and beige. A colour combo we hadn’t seen before. But they all rushed home to change out of their school clothes before coming back to check us out more closely. Good kids.”

…over and out, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Julie notes “I envision another sleepless night due to the tension level. How many more sleeps, or attempts to sleep before the border you ask? Who knows?”

“These are just petty problems though that we shall overcome. We are reminded that yesterday, it was 2 years since we lost our friend Loren Melnyk, after a courageous battle against a horrible cancer. He is missed daily by family and friends who wonder if that void will ever be filled. Thinking of our Melnyk girls and hoping time is beginning to heal.”

Day 95 – Sunday, September 29, 2013

We had the option to stay another day and night in Tecolutla or move on to Tuxpan for the day. We did not stop at Tuxpan on the way south so decided we should travel the 150 or so kilometres. It was a good decision. The beach at Tuxpan is wonderful. The waters are clean and warm and we could camp close to the beach. We left around 1:00 PM and were in Tuxpan by 3:00 PM. Julie notes “Hmmm a hot, noisy street next to the squeaky wheels of tortilla torture or a beautiful beach with the ocean breezes and clean sand between your toes. Tough choice. Makes us wonder what reasons Norm has for staying in Tecolutla. Is it really just the shrimp cocktail?”

We went for breakfast at a local Tecolutla restaurant we had been to on the trip south. Julie ordered an omelette. Bad choice. I had the huevos rancheros. Better choice. Lesson #95; order what they make locally. When the waitress has to check with the cook to see if he can make an omelette, you know you’ve made the wrong choice. I think this lesson has already been mentioned in the blog somewhere else but sometimes even the authors forget. Julie notes “I think the cook that day was her dad, the owner, filling in on a slow Sunday morning. There are a lot of pictures in the restaurant of him catching fish, but none of him cooking them. The little town was much quieter this time around even for a weekend making us think that we must’ve been here during a holiday last time through. But the party bus still drives up our street with the music blaring and horn honking despite few partiers. Brad wanted to get on and dance the night away but I wouldn’t let him. No seatbelts.”

And for our high class friends that like to travel to Mexico for their luxury vacations, I think we have found the hotel for you in Tecolutla. See the pictures below. No need to book early as there has not been anyone there on any of the days we were here; both times. But don’t let that stop you. It’s called Hotel Malta in case you can’t read the hand painted sign. There is no A/C but who needs A/C when you don’t have windows or doors? Julie notes “Brad is exaggerating. There is someone living in the bottom left hand suite with the blanketed doorway. And we even saw food being delivered to him. Bonus. Plus a short walk to the beach and have we mentioned the tortilla factory almost right next door? What do you say Lola? Maybe check it out on Vacation Rental by Owners’ website.”

Our campsite across the street on a foggy Sunday morning. Julie notes “or Brad just coming out of a fog. And again, our choice was to stay here or a beach. What would you choose?”

These shrines are all along the highway. Some have burning candles inside when we go by. We assume someone stops and lights a candle on their way to work each morning. Julie notes “We have seen these everywhere ranging from very simple similar to roadside markers to elaborate to actual small chapels. The entrances to towns, gas stations, malls, grocery stores usually will have one. Very devout and it is interesting to see the mix of state and religion.”

Another lab for the QEII folks to envy. Julie notes “I had hoped to go into one of these little places but haven’t been forced back into employment just yet.”

Good toll highways to travel on again today.

Some farmland scenery you might see north of the border.

Tuxpan is a shipping port with deep water access from the river to the Gulf of Mexico.

The view from our camper door at our beachfront site. The ships you can faintly see on the horizon are waiting to enter the port.

Julie’s fancy schmancy fruity drink that wasn’t really a drink. It had a spicy concoction poured over top of the fruit. The fruit was very nice and I think she enjoyed it. Julie notes “What kind of a face is that? The fruit was delicious but the straws were deceiving as there was nothing but a tiny dribble of pineapple juice in the bottom. Could be it dribbled out the bottom during the vendor’s trek across the beach. So I guess it’s my WTFDd face. (Where’s The Fruit Drink dammitt).

We bought this cart of beach wear and toys to bring home for our friends and family. You should be able to spot us pulling into Grande Prairie with this cart strapped to the roof. I hope it’s still there when we get home or there will be some disappointed faces. Julie notes “You guys know the rule. No asking or you don’t get anything!”

…over and out, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Julie notes “Border crossing was coming up soon, we hoped, back to the states and therefore we needed to cook up all raw items we had. So I was boiling eggs and potatoes inside and Brad had a meat fest going on the grill with chicken and sausage and peppers. It was a delicious supper but I’m not sure the beach restaurant workers were happy to see the potential competition. We could’ve fed quite a people and made a few pesos.”

Day 94 – Saturday, September 28, 2013

We made up the traveling shortfall we had yesterday. We traveled from Aguilera, past yesterday’s planned destination at a Pemex on the Auto Pista, and on to Tecolutla. How many people reading this can say they have been to Tecolutla twice? We can. Julie notes “How many people can even say ‘Tecolutla’? Okay you show offs. Now say it 3 times fast.” We arrived in Tecolutla around 2:00 PM. Julie notes “Darn I was really looking forward to staying in the Pemex gas station parking lot. They did have showers if I recall.”

We parked at the same location on the street across from the squeaky tortilla factory. It was hot again and we had no shade from the direct sun. We went with Norm to his favourite restaurant for beers and fresh large shrimp cocktails. Very large, fresh, delicious shrimp.

Julie and I then headed for the beach, rented a table and umbrella, and spent the afternoon having a few drinks, swimming, getting serenaded by guitar player/singer buskers, saying “no gracias” to the endless parade of vendors hawking their wares, and just people watching. It was a good relaxing afternoon.

Julie notes “I couldn’t eat all of my shrimp cocktail and so I had it packed to go and dropped it off at a hotel refrigerator so we could pick it up on our way back from the beach to our camper. This seemed like a great idea when we had access to our Spanish interpreter. Try explaining to the new staff that came on in between times that you have a doggy bag full of shrimp cocktail down in their restaurant refrigerator. The Windmill Man was in full tilt mode. But 6 people down the line we who happened upon the owner and we reclaimed our leftovers and most of our dignity.”

We walked down to a little restaurant in the main town plaza and had some tacos for a late supper and then meander around the square before heading back to our lawn chairs on the street trying to stay cool (obviously not trying to be cool).

Nice truck buddy. Did you pick that colour? Julie notes “I don’t know what he’s talking about. I love the trucks down here. Like everything else, very bright and colourful.”

We travelled along the Gulf coast through a very large wetland area only a few feet above sea level. Julie notes “I’m pretty sure I could see crocodiles smiling and licking their lips as we drove by. Just seemed like a placed they would like to hang out in and wait for stranded touristas. Now I know how Cap’n Hook always felt.”

One area contained hundreds of egrets. Julie notes “Okay maybe I was wrong about the crocodiles. These guys didn’t seem too worried. I hope the egrets don’t regret their decision. (I know I used that joke before but I like it and who’s really paying attention anyway?)”

We crossed this bridge southbound and now again on our northbound trip. Julie notes “Another Deja View.”

The highways today were pretty good. A few rough sections but mostly good traveling. Julie notes “We were having a very ‘Vera and Jim’ day on the iTunes and then this Veracruz sign popped up so we turned that way.”

Any car, from anywhere in the world, that ends up in Mexico can be made roadworthy. Julie notes “This is one of my other obsessions. Be they called llanteras, vulcanizadora, or ‘pickyourtireouthere’ (I may have that last one a bit wrong, memory is failing me), the tire shops are on almost every corner and there is usually one right after a string of topes or a stretch of bad road. Location, location, location. They don’t vary much in appearance. This one shown here is quite fancy as they are usually just a shack with lots of tires piled around, a hammock hung somewhere and almost always a group of men, I’m assuming talking about tires, work and probably women. It seems like their answer to the pool hall. Sometimes a little food stand will be associated with it because as we know shooting the breeze and solving the world’s problems can make you hungry.”

Julie’s OCD daily laundry shot. Julie notes “It’s true. If I don’t see laundry on the line I make him drive me around and around until I do. Who am I kidding? There is always a laundry shot out there but am I quick enough to get it? That is the challenge. Not sure why I like it so much. Just one of those things that ties us all together. Pun intended.”

Tecolutla is a trophy fishing destination. Julie notes “Brad turn this way, toward the camera! I know what we’re having for supper! For a few days at least.”

One of the buskers on the beach serenading the lady next to us. Julie notes “She was having a great day by herself at the beach. She had this guy sing to her for at least a half an hour, ordered food and drinks and bought goodies, chatted, laughed. She is my new beach mentor. Not to be confused with Beeotch mentors. I have had a few of those too.

We bought a little hanging basket set for the RV to help us stay more organized. I had to use my best negotiating skills to get a good deal but again I think the vendor left happy.

…over and out, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Julie notes “As I said above, this was a very ‘Vera and Jim’ day and we ended it with a wild chase in the camper, yelling ‘I thought you was a toad.’ The little toad or frog is still in there having ricocheted off my arm and into the depths of boxed items under the table. There are a few flies in the camper too so hopefully the one will take care of the other. Hope it doesn’t get out up in Canada and we cause an ecological disaster as in the ‘Bart Simpson, trip to Australia’ episode. Watch for updates on that.”

Day 93 – Friday, September 27, 2013

We’re back online. Sorry for the big gap between posts but as I said, Julie promised to make these posts worth the wait. Julie notes “Oh gee thanks Brad! No pressure there!” Firstly though, Happy Birthday to my two younger brothers (twins) Danny and Donny to family, Dan and Don to some, Daniel and Donald to most. Born 3 minutes apart on September 27, 1956 makes them 57 years old today. Julie notes “This is also my Aunt Lynne’s birthday who also goes by other names like Lynne and AL and is possibly best known from her time as a Queen Charlotte Island Star ‘Peeler’ along with my mother. They were a team actually but for more details on that you will have to wait for my other book ‘Family Secrets and Why They Should Remain That Way.’ This was the first of many firsts without Uncle Herb there in body but I’m sure in spirit. He was probably trying to find a way to put trick candles on your cake. Sounds like you were surrounded by love for the day.”

Julie notes “Okay, buddy let’s back this story waaaaaaaayyyyyyy up to the wee hours of the morning and even the evening before. As usual Brad has skimmed over a few details in his summary below. There was a large old church in the square we parked at and we had been treated to some loud and enthusiastic bell ringing interspersed throughout last evening as a long and well attended church service was being held. There was also a marching practise for some of the local government workers. They must’ve been preparing for an upcoming event. Or maybe they considered us visiting dignitaries and it was for our benefit. If so, then THANK YOU! They were having quite the time keeping straight faces as they marched down a ramp and rounded a corner, where that one guy, you know who he is, keeps goose stepping out of turn. Our alarm was set to go off at 6 AM so we closed our eyes and ears to the murmurings in the plaza around us and hoped the heat and humidity would drop a bit for a better sleeping temperature. We started to hear the town coming to life a little after 5 AM but thought it was just folks up getting ready to beat the heat of the day, until we heard some gentle ‘tap, tap, taps’ on the front door. Brad again answered in super hero mode and explained to the fellow at the door that the police chief had authorized that we could park there for the night. And closed the door hoping he had gotten his point across in Windmill Gringo style. But we were awake at that point so Brad starts going through his morning packing up routine and sees that we are now surrounded by about 50 people milling about, all looking a bit miffed about our camping location. Now first thing that comes to our mind are the rotating protests that we had seen in the bigger towns we had passed through. We quickly got things closed up enough to move down the block, out of the way. But in the end, it appears it was not a protest but an extension of the church service from the night before that started at 6 AM out in the square beside where we had been parked. Yes 6 AM! It lasted a couple minutes and then folks went on their merry way. We should’ve maybe stayed put and we could’ve been blessed as part of the service and our day may have turned out better. But moving was better than being cursed by the folks who felt we were in their way. We cannot easily blend in but we can do our best to not be a bother.”

Our goal today was to drive to Tecolutla, MX, however, because of the labour dispute and revolving protests happening throughout Mexico we only made it to Aguilera. The protesters had blockaded the major roadway we were traveling. The traffic backup of trucks was probably 15 kilometers long. Before arriving in Aguilera, however, we crossed the isthmus of Mexico from the Pacific side to the Gulf of Mexico side. It is known for its extreme winds and we had secured awnings and hatches the night before with duct tape. As it was on the way south, we had no wind again in this area.

In the very small town of Aguilera, we found a little Community Park to camp in and the folks there made us feel right at home. They were very friendly and accommodating and couldn’t seem to do enough for us. One large extended family had taken the day off from their masonry construction business and was celebrating in their backyard with food, drinks, music, and laughter. Every time we walked by they invited us in to join the festivities.

It was very hot today, well over 30C, and we ran the generator and AC for most of the afternoon. By late afternoon, the protest blockade had ended and traffic started moving but we stayed in Aguilera for the night hoping to move on in the morning.

We went to a local family run BBQ place on the highway for a meat lover’s special – sausage, chicken, and ribs. Julie and I shared a plate and still had some left over. They grill all the meat on a wood fired homemade brick and steel BBQ. The sausage is hung above the grill and smoked until it is ready to grill. Julie notes “This is where that old Christmas poem originated ‘the sausage was hung by the chicken with care, and the ribs were all seasoned for meat lovers to share’

Large wind generators on the west side of the isthmus of Mexico. Julie notes “Once again it was not windy through this pass making us think our guide might be full of hot air. But I guess the person that decided to place all of these windmills must know something too.”

Scenery along the highway

They large “speed bumps” or topes are called “reductors” here but they have the same effect.

No, it’s not our leader, Norm, it’s the rear end of some cattle in a truck but I can see how you would be confused. J

Julie was tempted to make a side trip to her namesake Mexican town but I convinced her to keep on truckin’ northward. Julie notes “I bet it was an absolutely beautiful and charming place otherwise they wouldn’t have chosen that name.”

The results of the blockade. This was approximately 15 km from the actual blockade.

Julie notes “As you can see above, even the people with guns were having trouble making headway so we decided it was best to backtrack and check other options. This involved more backing up and manoeuvering and hand signaling other motorists to give us some space but it did not require me getting a whole street full of vehicles to back up as happened back in San Cristobal. So I was happy.”

Our new friends in Aguilera.

Some chicken shots especially for our granddaughter Melodie.

A chicken and a laundry shot all in one picture. Julie notes “Bonus, 2 of my obsessions together. This campground also offered a herd of wandering sheep, horses grazing right outside our window and duelling roosters in the morning.”

The family run BBQ joint with the pitmaster hard at work.

And here is the pitmaster and his “horno” oven (really – that is what it is called) from last night, in Tapanatepec, that Julie mentioned in yesterday’s post.

Our unplanned campsite for the night. We made friends later in the afternoon and evening with all the local kids and some adults who come to this park to play soccer, run around, and just have fun. We gave away the last of our candy supply as we visited with all the kids. Julie notes “Love the colourful tire border on playground. As often happens when there is lots of playing, the fun ends when the crying starts. 2 little boys, hot and tired and one ball.”

…over and out, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Julie notes “I don’t think I have any Christina Aguilera on my iTunes but if you know a song, shout it out.”

Sorry loyal blog followers.  We have not posted anything for quite a few days.  We have had some long travel days and the free day we had we spent lazing on a beach in Tuxpan, MX.  We promise to get you all caught up over the next few days.  We are currently in a beautiful full service RV Park in San Antonio, TX.  Stay tuned for the updates. Julie promises to make them worth the wait.  I think that is code for “Brad will be looking like a fool.”

…over and out from the good ole USA, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Day 92 – Thursday, September 26, 2013

We awoke early this morning in our Pemex campsite on the main highway in San Cristobal after returning there after dinner. We ran a few errands in the morning for groceries and supplies and were on our way about 8:30 AM. The drive today was one of the most scenic drives we have taken. The mountains from San Cristobal to Tapanatepec were spectacular and as a bonus, the day was mostly sunny. Julie notes “We’ve been saving the ‘spectacular’ description for a day like today. This used to be a heavily used road but they have made another route for trucks, etc. So not only was the scenery ‘spectacular’ but the highway was in excellent condition and very little traffic so we were both able to enjoy the scenery. Lots of switchbacks and climbs and did we mention spectacular views.”

We stopped at a tourist area called Chorreadero to view the underground river and waterfall that comes roaring out of the mountain. This is the off/rainy season and the water was very fast and high but that may have made it even more spectacular. We could not hike to all the areas due to the high water but our guide showed us the highlights in the half an hour we had to spend there. Julie notes “Plus we weren’t expecting a hike and I was wearing flip-flops. Brad’s perfect opportunity to stage ‘an accident’ on the slippery rocks. But there was that one witness.”

Our Pemex campsite on the highway in San Cristobal, MX

Some of the views from our drive.

They were making charcoal under these burning earth mounds.

Above the clouds

Chorreadero tourist area.

Julie notes “I tried to convince Brad to pose on these steps for a picture. In the dry season you can hike to caves back behind the falls and there are guided underground river raft tours ranging from about a 6 hour tour to a 14 hour tour. Hard to imagine the water being low and calm enough for that. Right now you’d shoot out of there like a greased watermelon from a greased watermelon cannon. (Sorry couldn’t think of a good analogy that didn’t involve birthing.)”

Julie’s laundry on the line shot for today. Actually, there were several in the 160 pictures she took today that took me forever to download but I’m not one to complain. Julie notes “Hmmm, I seem to recall some wining, but look, he even got to be in this one.”

The Pacific in the distance.

The municipal office and Post Office in Tapanatepec.

The municipal office girls who agreed to mail our postcards tomorrow when the post office opens. Julie notes “Finding post offices is almost as hard as finding laundry mats (although in the last few towns we’ve been tripping over lavenderias around every corner). So to those of you receiving post cards, if Rosa, Roxanna, and Mirabelle keep their part of the bargain, there will be Honduras and Guatemalan post cards mailed from Mexico on their way soon. These ladies didn’t like the books in the background for their picture but I think it looks very official.”

…over and out, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Julie notes “I can’t believe Brad forgot to mention our trip down to a restaurant by the river where he dabbled in a little horno-graphy. Oh yes, the proprietor allowed him to go and check out the huge, rounded horno oven where they cook their specialty fish, Lisa (the name of the fish) de Horno (baked). We decided however to try the 2 course meal at the restaurant near our downtown campsite. Great choice. The atmosphere in the old Spanish building was cool, both in ambience and temperature. We were having a hard time acclimatizing to the heat again after being in the highlands for a while. And the food! A light pasta with butter and cheese first course, followed by amazing spicy meatballs in a green sauce with rice and local veggies. Mmmmm One of the best meals I’ve had on the trip so far. Mmmm I wonder if they’re open for breakfast at 6:00 ?”

Day 91 – Wednesday, September 25, 2013

We left the border shortly after Julie and I were able to get our immigration permits to enter Mexico. It was the same guy dealing with us. It was still a slow process but much faster than last night. I promise I will never ever complain about the Canadian – US border again. Julie notes “Well you know that will just mean he will find something else to complain about. But of course nothing about me as I am perfect.”

We arrived around noon and completed a few errands at the mall in San Cristobal. Instead of taking a taxi from the mall into the heart of the city, our guide decided we should drive into the city and see if we could find a parking spot. DO NOT DO THIS. Julie notes “DO NOT DO THIS!!!” We were instructed to drive about 6 blocks one way to a market area while he took a different route to try and find parking for RVs. Julie notes “WHY DO WE LISTEN TO THIS GUY? But we did.” After the 6 blocks we were forced into some very narrow streets with lines of cars behind us. The first obstacle was having to climb a 12″ curb to skirt by a poorly parked vehicle. Then the nightmare really started. Streets got very narrow, Julie was getting lines of vehicles to back up while I tried to allow oncoming traffic to pass. Julie notes “This is really outside my comfort zone but enjoyed all the honking and can now add ‘traffic control’ to my resume when I need to get my new job to pay for the vehicle damage.” I apologize to the building owner whose eave that used to hang over the street and is now partly missing. Please just keep the plastic trim from my awning in exchange. There may also be other damage in various areas of San Cristobal from my camper jacks. It was simply not possible to stop and see if there was real damage or not. After an hour of street rodeo, we made it back to the mall parking lot. Julie notes “We deeply appoligize! If you are reading this, Damaged Property Owners, we will give you the name and email address of our guide who directed us down there and I am sure he will happily cover any costs. L”

We checked Trip Advisor for a good nearby restaurant with the criteria that it was within WALKING DISTANCE. Having found such a place we headed down a kilometre of side streets only to realize the location on the Trip Advisor / Google map was incorrect. Julie notes “We can’t blame our guide for this so we will blame the Google Maps guy. I bet you he has some kind of camera attached to his mapping system and laughs and laughs when he sees people like us wandering aimlessly about asking pharmacy delivery guys on motor bikes if they can help us. He said and I quote ‘take a taxi’.”

We headed back to the mall and hailed a cab to the city centre. From there we again checked Trip Advisor and found a highly rated restaurant that actually was within walking distance. Lucky for us because by that time we really needed a drink! The food was fantastic and its rating on Trip Advisor was well deserved. I think it was called TierrAdentro. Julie notes “Well we almost didn’t make it to this one either as Google maps was slightly off and Brad’s Spanish is slightly off and when we asked directions from a fellow on the street he was really not sure what we were looking for. I said, in my calming, practical manner ‘Let’s just meander a bit further down the street before we give up, my darling honey bunch. I do believe I spy a few more eating establishments in that direction.’ And low and behold. There it was. (this may be paraphrased somewhat). It was a great find. I am not sure what we were supporting by eating there. Seemed to be a bit of an underground vibe but we’re cool man.”

Camping at the Guatemala/Mexican border – not in either country really. We had exited Guatemala but not yet entered Mexico. What do you call people with no country to call home? Julie notes “I think the answer to that currently is ‘The Emonds”.

Julie finally saw a macaw or toucan or some kind of bird she had missed in Tikal. Julie notes “See I knew he hadn’t actually seen a real toucan or he would recognize this one perched on top of this gas market sign. It almost looks unreal with that circle around it and then jungle and clouds building behind.”

We think this was a well where a mother and daughter were getting water. Julie notes “Yes just after this shot she swung the white and green container up onto her head. These containers are fiberglass and not pottery but try carrying one on your head for a while. If you want. Lots of corn here of course and it grows ‘as high (and probably higher) as an elephant’s eye’. Who knows what musical that is from? Hint I was in it in high school and played the part of ‘chorus girl with one line, that she didn’t project loudly enough’.”

Landscape in southern Mexico.

Water fill day at the mall. Julie notes “Glug, glug, glug. A nice fellow from the water company is holding the funnel (In case you thought Brad had 3 hands) leaving me free to do the hard job of taking pictures of them.”

A wide street in San Cristobal. Due to the state of extreme stress we were unable to take pictures of the narrow streets. Julie notes “I wanted to but even I knew that might cross the limit. And notice the clouds building, inside and outside of the truck.”

Julie notes “And what’s a disaster story without a good flood. The streets were running with water. But to the folks here this is just a typical afternoon downtown. (Except for that Gringo and his big ass truck stuck in the streets).”

Dinner at TierrAdentro restaurant Julie notes “Okay they called this a marguerite but really it was just a really big tequila shooter. I was ddddrrrrrrrrrrrruuuuuuuunnnnnk. Fell asleep sitting up waiting for Brad to complete his blogging portion.”

And our final advice for today is “Don’t go to this guy for your dental work, OK?” Julie notes “Seriously? Who would let this guy near your mouth?”

…over and out the muleskinner and his sidekick

Julie notes “Time for a new phone card now that we are in Mexico. It has been quite the phone service experience since we bought our unlocked phone in El Salvador. Trying to understand the plans and get data and some countries only allow text within the country and buying lots of data or not enough data and not understanding the Spanish warning and update messages coming into the phones and we’ve received only 3 phone calls but we still aren’t sure how to answer them on this phone. So don’t call us. And don’t call us and leave a message because we’re not sure how to get those either and do you suppose they translate them all to Spanish? We’ll never know now will we?”

Day 90 – Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Today we left Panajachel at 9:30 headed for San Cristobal in Mexico. This meant a long driving day and another border crossing. We didn’t make it to San Cristobal, MX but at least we made it to the border. After much delay and many phone calls, they decided they would let our truck back into Mexico. The “official” at the border felt he should make a big issue of the vehicle’s weight rating. Of course, they let us into the country at the northern border so could not very well keep us from entering at the southern border. The late start and the border delay made it impossible to make it to San Cristobal. Secondly, after we finally got the permit for the vehicle, their computer system shut down and Julie and I could not get the immigration permit we required. We spent the night at the border station and I was first in line at 8:00 AM to get the necessary $48.00 US (for two) immigration permit. Julie notes “3.5 hours to ‘almost’ finalize our crossing and Brad and our guide were the only customers. I think the customs fellow was hoping for something green to grease the wheels. But the people parked beside us had a worse night as all of their stuff was being searched and confiscated. It’s possible that the ‘100 pairs of flip-flops and slippers, etc. may not have just be souvenirs gifts for the kids. But their loss my gain. Big flip-flop sale, coming soon to a place near us!”

Some pictures before leaving Panajachel and Lake Atitlan.

Julie making another small purchase from a very happy “single mother of 3” vendor. She told us it was slow season and this had been her only sale all week. She was very pleased. Julie notes “She was lots of fun and relentless and her woven fabrics beautiful and made by her mother or at least somebody’s mother. It didn’t hurt that she was named after one of my favourite drinks. Everyone knows I could never turn down a Marguerite.”

Our street front camp site. Julie notes “hmm what’s the hood ornament doing on the back?”

Tortilla makers Julie notes “The best show in town is always the tortilla shop with people coming and going and the steady ‘slap,slap,slap’ of tortillas being made, then flipped on the grill, then flopped into the basket. This thriving business was a few yards from our camping spot above. Went to sleep and woke up early to the aroma.”

On the road. Julie notes “Sure I’ll just reach out and grab your bag from the roof as we’re buzzing down this busy street.”

Julie notes “I am obsessed with taking pictures with laundry on the line. (Note on the top of the yellow building.) As I’ve said before, every day is laundry day here so lots of photo ops. So do you think it may mean I have dirty laundry to air or that I feel hung out to dry or all washed up? More therapy I guess.”

A road washout detour down to the river and then back up to the road.

Heavy rains throughout the afternoon as we travelled through the mountains.

…over and out, the muleskinner and his sidekick

Julie notes “I know many of you have missed hearing about our nocturnal adventures. Things have been pretty quiet lately comparatively speaking. Even the border crossing parking lot seemed quite peaceful so while we were just closing our eyes for our forty to sixty winks, not a soul around that we could hear, relaxed and in that drifting off phase, BANG, BANG, BANG! on the door. Brad luckily was wearing his super hero skivvies and leaped directly from the bed to the door, yelling super hero stuff and peeking through blinds and such. Turns out Nicky, Nicky Nine doors is a game in Mexico or Guatemala, depending which side of the border line your toe is over and there was a young kid and his dad, walking nonchalantly up the street. Probably whistling and looking askance. (One of mom’s favourite words.)”

Day 89 – Monday, September 23, 2013

We left Antigua this morning shortly after 7:00 AM heading for the town of Panajachel on Lake Atitlan in highlands of Guatemala. The town is ~1,600m (5,250′) above sea level. Some of the mountain passes we travelled today were over 2,600m (8,530′) high. The mountain scenery and the view of Lake Atitlan on the narrow windy decent to Panajachel is quite spectacular. Julie notes “I have had a bit of a head cold so the mountainous roads played some havoc with my inner ears. At one point, when the pressure was released, they actually squealed. Brad said he heard the noise even from his side of the truck and would back me up when I told this story in front of a large group at a party or somewhere. Now if you know us you may have heard the story of Brad’s supposedly squealing ear drums on a plane, which I supposedly said I heard and then possibly denied in front of a large group at a party. My experience today was however real and I just know Brad will verify that the first chance he gets.”

We are camped near the ferry landing but so far I have avoided any confrontations with the ferry operations here. Remember San Jorge on Lake Nicarauga? If you missed that story you can read about it on our Day 70 – Beached – Part III here http://muleskinner.ca/2013/09/06/day-70-beached-part-iii/

We walked through the town streets this afternoon and were lured into a restaurant by the very outgoing spokesperson coaxing us away from the neighbouring competition. Rule #89; Don’t let personable restaurant spokespeople lure you away from the competition. Lesson learned. Julie notes “I may need to claim a little, well okay all of the blame for that. I am a sucker for a smooth talker with a mustache. So much so, I’m surprised I’m not married to that Magnum PI guy. The red flags were there that I was leading Brad down the path to a bad pizza but I was blinded by his earnest plea to choose them over the neighbour (who had a wood fired pizza oven for goodness sake). Oh well. Luckily I chose Brad back in the day, as I don’t know if that Magnum guy would’ve forgiven me the canned mushrooms, shrimp with shells and crust, not really sure what the crust was made of. Central American handbook Lesson #89.1 ‘Order the local specialties, just like anywhere else in the world, it’s what they’re good at and it’s usually yummy.”

Oh yeah, this is the answer to the mystery question the other day; a large concrete sink, usually outdoors. Julie notes “No winners, so no cement giant sink on the top of our RV to explain to customs. While that ‘sinks’ in, Aunt Doreen correctly answered the banana flower question but instead of bananas would apples be okay as prize? Just before clicking this shot the camper drove under an apple tree and were showered with ripe apples. The next few corners we had more drive by fruitings as the apples rolled off.”

A view of volcano Agua leaving Antigua.

Mountain scenery along the Pan-American highway.

Taking a break along the way. Julie notes “There was a large pen with a squirrel and several rabbits on the grounds of this restaurant. I asked one of grounds men, in my slowly growing Spanish vocabulary, if the rabbits were pets or food? He said ‘oh mascota’ pets. Then a couple minutes later we find out rabbit is most definitely on the menu. Hmmmm maybe he was just sparing their feelings while they were within earshot. With those big ears you’d have to be careful. And does that also mean sometimes squirrel is on the menu? Hmmmm”

More scenery

Lake Atitlan Julie notes “This is where our friend Merriam, who travelled most of the trip with us, was from. She had told us she lived on the most beautiful lake in Central America and I don’t think she was exaggerating.”

A mom with her hands full and the little guy checking out things behind her. Julie notes “Even the babies go gaga when they see ‘the unit’.”

We walked back downtown to Jose Pinguino’s for dinner. Trip Advisor rated it highly plus our daughter Kristin really likes penguins. The food was so-so but the entertainment by these three girls playing marimbas was outstanding.

…over and out, the muleskinner and his sidekick